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Worth buying US mint proof Gold Platinum and Silver sets for investment?
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<p>[QUOTE="skrilla, post: 482797, member: 3404"]For investment it's all about rarity (supply vs demand).</p><p><br /></p><p>Proofs are typically not a good investment unless you plan to crack 'em out and send 'em in. Even then you aren't guaranteed to have anything good. I bought a 1962 proof set ($17 unopened) and the franklin is a nice cameo.... except for a small, but very noticeable metal bunch (looks terrible) on the reverse. The dime is probably a 67/8 but even though it is a cameo it would cost me $20 or so to get it graded which means I'm down $17 for the set + $20 (or more) for the grading. I'm now down $37 and I have to hope that someone wants to even buy a 63 cameo Roosevelt. </p><p><br /></p><p>Modern proofs are made much better and typically grade well, but because of this you won't be able to get much unless you have either a very rare coin or PF70. Look around on Ebay for proofs (year)2000+ like state quarters. I bought a PF69 UC Maine quarter for my step brother's wife because she likes lighthouses, and it only set me back $6. That guy lost a bit of money on the deal unless he used a free grading from NGC. I could have obtained a 70 if I spent $20-30 more. </p><p><br /></p><p>Also if you look at how many are in a certain grade, you will see more demand. Often times you see an MS66 wheat cent go for 20-30 for a common date, however an MS67 can go for several hundred on a common year because there are thousands of 66's but only 50 MS67. </p><p><br /></p><p>The best place to check for this is on Ha.com they list the population in any grade fro PCGS and NGC, you want to look at the PCGS # and unfortunately there is a prejudice in this area as many times you will get significantly less money for NGC coins of the same grade even though they are the same or sometimes better quality graders. An example of what I mean is, you might see (making the date up, but the example is real) a 1956-d with a population of 37 in PCGS MS67 and a population of 53 in NGC and the NGC coin will sell for $56 while the PCGS coin will sell for $2000.</p><p><br /></p><p>This is the speculation side and I'm only telling you so you know. Most non population based values are very similar for NGC and PCGS though some still require the latter and pay noticeable amounts more for them.</p><p><br /></p><p>If it's for you, buy the coin, not the holder. If it's for $$$, buy the highest graded, rarest coins you can afford. Key dates are still the best investment (1916-d merc, 1909s VDB lincoln etc.) because it's less likely someone will find a bunch of them uncirculated in a bank vault somewhere and increase the grade population, driving down the value.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="skrilla, post: 482797, member: 3404"]For investment it's all about rarity (supply vs demand). Proofs are typically not a good investment unless you plan to crack 'em out and send 'em in. Even then you aren't guaranteed to have anything good. I bought a 1962 proof set ($17 unopened) and the franklin is a nice cameo.... except for a small, but very noticeable metal bunch (looks terrible) on the reverse. The dime is probably a 67/8 but even though it is a cameo it would cost me $20 or so to get it graded which means I'm down $17 for the set + $20 (or more) for the grading. I'm now down $37 and I have to hope that someone wants to even buy a 63 cameo Roosevelt. Modern proofs are made much better and typically grade well, but because of this you won't be able to get much unless you have either a very rare coin or PF70. Look around on Ebay for proofs (year)2000+ like state quarters. I bought a PF69 UC Maine quarter for my step brother's wife because she likes lighthouses, and it only set me back $6. That guy lost a bit of money on the deal unless he used a free grading from NGC. I could have obtained a 70 if I spent $20-30 more. Also if you look at how many are in a certain grade, you will see more demand. Often times you see an MS66 wheat cent go for 20-30 for a common date, however an MS67 can go for several hundred on a common year because there are thousands of 66's but only 50 MS67. The best place to check for this is on Ha.com they list the population in any grade fro PCGS and NGC, you want to look at the PCGS # and unfortunately there is a prejudice in this area as many times you will get significantly less money for NGC coins of the same grade even though they are the same or sometimes better quality graders. An example of what I mean is, you might see (making the date up, but the example is real) a 1956-d with a population of 37 in PCGS MS67 and a population of 53 in NGC and the NGC coin will sell for $56 while the PCGS coin will sell for $2000. This is the speculation side and I'm only telling you so you know. Most non population based values are very similar for NGC and PCGS though some still require the latter and pay noticeable amounts more for them. If it's for you, buy the coin, not the holder. If it's for $$$, buy the highest graded, rarest coins you can afford. Key dates are still the best investment (1916-d merc, 1909s VDB lincoln etc.) because it's less likely someone will find a bunch of them uncirculated in a bank vault somewhere and increase the grade population, driving down the value.[/QUOTE]
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Worth buying US mint proof Gold Platinum and Silver sets for investment?
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