I have a rare coin which, despite spotting, is rather nice looking, so I plan to submit it to a TPG, as it is surely one of the better of the variety. I'd like to be sure the spotting is stopped in its tracks before having the coin holdered. I have experience with the TPGs conserving gold, but not copper, nickel or silver. I'm not very concerned with trusting them to well-conserve silver without damaging it, but would like to know more before making any decisions about conserving copper or nickel, and especially nickel, in this case. Therefore, I'm looking for feedback regarding short-term and long-term results from those who have had nickel coins conserved by either or both NGC & PCGS. I'll try to put pix up later today, time permitting. Can anyone chime in with their personal experiences?
The only nickel I ever had conserved by NGC was a war nickel, which I am sure you know is a silver alloy. The coin had a residue on the surface, I think all they did is dip the coin. So while I don't have any concrete examples of conserving a CUNI alloy, my overall impression of their conservation service is a positive one. Before: After:
Thanks for the reply @Lehigh96 . As you surmised, I'm concerned with CuNi coinage, but appreciate knowing your thoughts. The other thing I should mention, and it will become evident if / when I put up photos is that the coin exhibits attractive wood grain toning on one side, so I'm concerned about neutralizing the spots without stripping that toning from the coin. If they must do so to neutralize the spots, I'll have a harder decision to make.
No experiences regarding TPG conservation of spotted Copper Nickel coinage? Positive experiences / negative experiences? I don't want to sentence a nice coin someone else can enjoy to progressive spotting, or to detrimental conservation, so I'm looking for all feedback.
Images below are of a 2 Feather 1915 Buffalo Nickel. Spotting is apparent at the back of the Indian's head, and above the bison's back.
Seeing the photos, I'd lean towards sacrificing the wood grain toning if that's what it took to neutralize the spots. I don't think it adds enough of a premium to worry losing.
I agree with @ddddd . The woodgrain toning, IMO, is minimal at best, based on your posted pix. In hand it might be more pronounced, but I can't really see it. I believe the conservation would be a good direction for this buff. Let us know what you decide. Edit: BTW, beautiful coin.
The toning streaks are there to stay IMO. They can be lessened but will always return. The black spots can be removed but some of them will probably leave a tiny gray etched spot. I call any conservation to a small area of a coin (spotted or not) "spot conservation." It is done using a microscope and I seriously doubt most folks working at a TPGS can do a decent job of it. IMO, most of them would just dip the coin and send it back! Proper conservation of that coin would probably take over a half hour USING A STEREO SCOPE. So, yes Virginia there is a Santa Claus but he ain't working in CA or CO. I'd rather trust my nickel to a skilled coin doctor rather than either of them.
Honestly, I doubt much would change as long as the coin was stored properly. Oh, it could change a little over a long period of time but I think you'd have a hard time seeing the difference. You've got 3 things going on with that coin that I can see. There's the toning streaks, what you're calling wood grain toning, the dark spots with smaller and darker spots in the center of them, and there's some verdigris scattered around here and there on the obv. There's some below the date, some in the cleft where the 2 feathers meet, some above and to the left of the smaller feather, and a little bit in the fields above the top of the head. The dark spots, if you look at them closely you can smaller, tiny specks in the center of them that stick up a bit, same thing where the verdigris is. This tells me that at some point in time small specks of foreign organic material got deposited on the coin somehow. And those specks of foreign material, couple with moisture in the air, are what caused the dark spot toning and the verdigris. It's the result of the material, whatever it is, decaying over time. The verdigris can be removed with Verdi-Care, once it becomes available again, and the other dark spots can be removed as Insider described. But they are all going to leave lighter colored spots where the dark spots used to be, again as Insider described. Point being, there's still gonna spots on the coin, just different colored spots. So it's up to you to decide which you'd prefer if you were to go the spot removal route so you could keep the toning streaks. Dipping the coin will probably take it all off, including the toning streaks you like and want to keep - but no spots, light or dark, at all. And if done properly the coin will retain its luster and be pretty much all the same color. The toning streaks, again as Insider said, will probably come back because they're caused by an alloy mix and so those areas will probably tone again. But I suspect it would take a long time. I could be wrong, they may come back rather quickly, depending on storage conditions and local environment of course.
I've never had any luck with carbon spots on a nickel Buffalo or Jefferson. Ive had them to show up after a coin being slabed. I've diped them only to tone brownish only to turn back to a black spot. Sometimes a coin cant be fixed, but accepted for what it is....I've seen a lot of 35,36,and 37 toned buffalos all with spots...and passed on each...great colors....and distracting spots....pass
Despite me posting this thread some 5 months ago, I happen to be working on a follow up thread to this one at this very moment. Stay tuned . . .
The verdigris behind the feathers looks moderate, also a few on the reverse. The height of the verdigris is an important clue as it can be almost 1:1 with the surface pit below. The darker spots below the green ones are cupric oxide, a very advanced stage of corrosion. Generally, they cannot be removed without damaging the surface below. I would conserve this with VC using a few tiny drops over the green verdigris (form a dome over it). Let it stand for an hour and carefully use a toothpick directly on each spot (while under fluid). I see some light spots that would be fully removed with VC. This would be a long and tedious conservation addressing all the spots or you can just go all in and soak the entire coin. GOOD LUCK! One warning, VC might also remove any light toning it contacts though I do agree with Insider - the woodgrain should persist through any conservation but it could change color if the whole coin is "dipped".
This thread is one of many leading me toward skepticism regarding the fine line between conservation and cleaning.
Let me try to make it very simple for you: There is no fine line. The word "Conservation" can refer to all types of things done to objects. Conservation of metal objects differs from conservation of fabrics, paintings, organic objects, etc. and words such as cleaning, restoring, repairing, etc. may be more specific depending on the object and what was done to it as it is altered from its starting condition of preservation. BTW, I cannot think of any conservation of metal that is not some form of ALTERATION like cleaning.
You're overthinking it, it's simple and also applies to toning. A coin is either considered market acceptable or not - regardless what you call about the journey there. That is why I much prefer to use the terms "cleaned" for not market acceptable and "conserved" for a market acceptable coin. It's a simple matter of colloquial nomenclature for convenience in discussion.