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<p>[QUOTE="moneycostingmemoney, post: 2805231, member: 86367"]That's a really good, almost unheard of rate for savings right now. Would it happen to be a "virtual bank" and need above fdic insured limit to get that rate?</p><p><br /></p><p>Also, yes, 12mo rates aren't good. That's why you need to get everything into 24mo for it to work for you. My example was just for the startup- getting into a maturity rotation to make the funds as accessible as possible, if needed. Anything longer than that should be placed elsewhere- solid dividend stocks paying 2-4%. Because, really, at that point, you could cash out as a long position and not get gouged by the taxes and it's liquid again...if the stock didn't drop.</p><p><br /></p><p>I guess this all boils down to time- how much time do you have to work on it (manage) and what time frame are you looking at tying the money up for. I still say, without the flipping mindset, metals are a good long term hedge. As far as numismatic metals, that brings another element into valuation, whereas a "dumb" bar of metal...not so much.</p><p><br /></p><p>Personally, I collect ases, maples etc because it's what I like to do. I watch for the right time to buy, but I'm also getting a couple pieces of everything from each year because I like them. I'm not so analytical with those as with the "dumb" metal purchases. The same with the non PM coins and paper currency that I collect. I know (barring a GSA hoard release) I'll (moreso my son or his generations to come) make out with them in the long run. They aren't making them anymore, I won't buy something unless it's<70% book value or <15% below current market value no matter how much I want it and I don't buy crap. If a nice (XF or better) example is out of my budget I'll either not get it or wait till my budget matches my buy marker. Then I go to work.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="moneycostingmemoney, post: 2805231, member: 86367"]That's a really good, almost unheard of rate for savings right now. Would it happen to be a "virtual bank" and need above fdic insured limit to get that rate? Also, yes, 12mo rates aren't good. That's why you need to get everything into 24mo for it to work for you. My example was just for the startup- getting into a maturity rotation to make the funds as accessible as possible, if needed. Anything longer than that should be placed elsewhere- solid dividend stocks paying 2-4%. Because, really, at that point, you could cash out as a long position and not get gouged by the taxes and it's liquid again...if the stock didn't drop. I guess this all boils down to time- how much time do you have to work on it (manage) and what time frame are you looking at tying the money up for. I still say, without the flipping mindset, metals are a good long term hedge. As far as numismatic metals, that brings another element into valuation, whereas a "dumb" bar of metal...not so much. Personally, I collect ases, maples etc because it's what I like to do. I watch for the right time to buy, but I'm also getting a couple pieces of everything from each year because I like them. I'm not so analytical with those as with the "dumb" metal purchases. The same with the non PM coins and paper currency that I collect. I know (barring a GSA hoard release) I'll (moreso my son or his generations to come) make out with them in the long run. They aren't making them anymore, I won't buy something unless it's<70% book value or <15% below current market value no matter how much I want it and I don't buy crap. If a nice (XF or better) example is out of my budget I'll either not get it or wait till my budget matches my buy marker. Then I go to work.[/QUOTE]
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