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<p>[QUOTE="Blaubart, post: 1925828, member: 37498"]As for the OP, 90% silver is a safe bet. Not that the price of silver can't drop from here, but rather that they are easily identifiable, hardly ever counterfeited, come in convenient denominations, have a relatively low buy-sell spread at most dealers, and they can easily be bought and sold between private parties to eliminate those dealer premiums.</p><p><br /></p><p>I would personally avoid war nickels and 40% silver halves. The silver content is just too low and they typically sell at a discount. Sure, that means you can also buy at a discount, but not if you're going through a dealer. Another reason to avoid them is storage. $1000 worth of war nickels and 40% halves will take up more space and weigh more than $1000 worth of 90% silver.</p><p><br /></p><p>I also like Eagles and other government issued bullion like Maples, Libertads, etc, but I typically only buy them when I can get them for less than 10% over spot.</p><p><br /></p><p>I have a few 5 and 10 ounce bars, but just for the heck of it. I wouldn't recommend buying them for stacking because they are more difficult for the buyer to confirm authenticity and PM content. Skeptical buyers will not offer as much money as confident buyers when it comes time for you (or your heirs) to sell.</p><p><br /></p><p>Many people like the 5 oz ATB rounds from the US Mint. You can occasionally pick those up for around 10% over spot too.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you're new to stacking, one thing to keep in mind is security. Do not buy a "safe" from Wal-Mart, or Office Max, or Staples, or Costco, or a sporting goods store. If you're going to stack any substantial amount of precious metals, you should look into renting a safe deposit box, or purchasing a real safe from a reputable safe dealer. A good safe will have a UL rating of at least TL15. (Wikipedia has a good explanation of safe ratings: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safe" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safe" rel="nofollow">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safe</a> )</p><p><br /></p><p>The best way to ensure you're getting all the security you paid for in a safe is to have it properly installed. Virtually any safe can be easily moved to a vehicle if it isn't secured in place, thus providing a burglar extra time and privacy to work on opening your safe. Not being secured also enables a burglar to lay your safe down on the floor giving them the advantage of gravity when using a pry bar to open the door.</p><p><br /></p><p>The next best step to take is to connect your safe to your home security system. Good physical security is fine and dandy, but combining it with electronic security is essentially a security multiplier.</p><p><br /></p><p>Welcome to the hobby and good luck![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Blaubart, post: 1925828, member: 37498"]As for the OP, 90% silver is a safe bet. Not that the price of silver can't drop from here, but rather that they are easily identifiable, hardly ever counterfeited, come in convenient denominations, have a relatively low buy-sell spread at most dealers, and they can easily be bought and sold between private parties to eliminate those dealer premiums. I would personally avoid war nickels and 40% silver halves. The silver content is just too low and they typically sell at a discount. Sure, that means you can also buy at a discount, but not if you're going through a dealer. Another reason to avoid them is storage. $1000 worth of war nickels and 40% halves will take up more space and weigh more than $1000 worth of 90% silver. I also like Eagles and other government issued bullion like Maples, Libertads, etc, but I typically only buy them when I can get them for less than 10% over spot. I have a few 5 and 10 ounce bars, but just for the heck of it. I wouldn't recommend buying them for stacking because they are more difficult for the buyer to confirm authenticity and PM content. Skeptical buyers will not offer as much money as confident buyers when it comes time for you (or your heirs) to sell. Many people like the 5 oz ATB rounds from the US Mint. You can occasionally pick those up for around 10% over spot too. If you're new to stacking, one thing to keep in mind is security. Do not buy a "safe" from Wal-Mart, or Office Max, or Staples, or Costco, or a sporting goods store. If you're going to stack any substantial amount of precious metals, you should look into renting a safe deposit box, or purchasing a real safe from a reputable safe dealer. A good safe will have a UL rating of at least TL15. (Wikipedia has a good explanation of safe ratings: [url]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Safe[/url] ) The best way to ensure you're getting all the security you paid for in a safe is to have it properly installed. Virtually any safe can be easily moved to a vehicle if it isn't secured in place, thus providing a burglar extra time and privacy to work on opening your safe. Not being secured also enables a burglar to lay your safe down on the floor giving them the advantage of gravity when using a pry bar to open the door. The next best step to take is to connect your safe to your home security system. Good physical security is fine and dandy, but combining it with electronic security is essentially a security multiplier. Welcome to the hobby and good luck![/QUOTE]
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