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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;GoldFinger1969, post: 26758878, member: 73489&quot;]Nah, I like the give and take.&nbsp; Don&#039;t take it too seriously. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />Good observations....with Eagles, you are talking about sub-1 ounce fractionals and the premiums there might be &quot;stickier&quot; because the total price is still more affordable than a falling premium on a Double Eagle.</p><p><br /></p><p><b>Everything I have read says that premiums on pre-1933 bullion gold (NOT numismatics) should be less than the equivalent counterpart moderns because liquidity and demand are LESS for pre-1933. </b></p><p><br /></p><p>So if you just want gold on the cheap...won&#039;t need to sell it....and like the numismatic/historical angle....<b><i><span style="color: #0000ff">pre-1933 is the place to shop </span></i></b>!Plausible.....keep in mind that elasticities are lower for fractional ounce coins because they are more affordable with a 1-oz now costing $5,000 plus.</p><p><br /></p><p>If a Half-Eagle should sell for a 10% premium to gold ($1,250 + 10%), even if the seller asks 20% it&#039;s more affordable than a Double Eagle and probably even an Eagle.&nbsp; Same formula for modern 1-ouncers vs. modern fractionals.&nbsp; I once paid a 40% premium on a 1/20th ounce Panda !!! <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie8" alt=":D" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Same math might work with Eagles vs. Double Eagles (or any other 1-ounce modern gold coins).[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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