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<p>[QUOTE="Bill in Burl, post: 1359947, member: 23692"]As "coleguy" stated, you do not, and should not, have to send in coins to be certified to sell. Most post-WWII coins, silver or not, will cost more to certify than they will ever be worth in your, or your grandkids, lifetime. You need to spend some time going through your coins with a redbook and pulling out those that look to have a nice premium attached. Then learn how to accurately grade by using the illustrations or going to a coin show or two and looking. Depending on what kind of profit margin you are looking for, you will have to come up witha specific actual value of any coin to determine whether you will certify it to sell, sell it raw, or sell it as scrap. By actual value, I mean that you can never sell a coin to a book or paper .. you have to sell it to a person. </p><p><br /></p><p>If a coin is in the Redbook for $100, you can probably buy it wholesale or at a coin show for $40-50 or less. If using Trends, rather than the Redbook, then it may be $60-70 depending on the scarcity. If you sell it to a dealer , you will get 30-40% of Redbook. If any of your coins has an "actual" value of less than $XX (you set the figure but I would say no less than $50-60), then it's not worth the cost to certify it. Even if it costs just $10-15 for the certification (if you send in more than 100 coins at once), you have eaten up a minimum of 20% of potential profit. You are better off setting your figure at $80-100 to fully offset the cost of a TPG. </p><p><br /></p><p>If I had to guess, I would say that over 90% of your stuff should/would sell as scrap silver. Except for silver dollars, which are .77 oz silver, all other silver US decimal coinage is .72 oz Ag for each face dollar. Most larger coin dealers will give you 88-90% of the silver quote price for scrap. So, if silver is $30/oz, then each face dollar is $23.10 full silver price .... 88-90% of that is $20.33 per face dollar. Silver dollars will be a bit more. Some dealers may give you less than 88%, depending on the avrage grade of what you give him .. well-worn coins don't weigh as much, so there is less silver. Whatever you do, don't sell your coins at one of the fake "Roadshow" set-ups at Hotels across North America .. they may only give you 5-10 times face, if that. One final caution ... NEVER sell you coins to the same dealer who gave you an appraisal, unless you know him/her extremely well and have done extended business with them before. Dealers are in the profession to make a profit and 100% of their profit comes from buying low and selling high ... dealers will purcahse coins at the least possible cost to them. I would also greatly shy away from dealers that just want to cherry-pick, skimming off the top 1-2% of your coins.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Bill in Burl, post: 1359947, member: 23692"]As "coleguy" stated, you do not, and should not, have to send in coins to be certified to sell. Most post-WWII coins, silver or not, will cost more to certify than they will ever be worth in your, or your grandkids, lifetime. You need to spend some time going through your coins with a redbook and pulling out those that look to have a nice premium attached. Then learn how to accurately grade by using the illustrations or going to a coin show or two and looking. Depending on what kind of profit margin you are looking for, you will have to come up witha specific actual value of any coin to determine whether you will certify it to sell, sell it raw, or sell it as scrap. By actual value, I mean that you can never sell a coin to a book or paper .. you have to sell it to a person. If a coin is in the Redbook for $100, you can probably buy it wholesale or at a coin show for $40-50 or less. If using Trends, rather than the Redbook, then it may be $60-70 depending on the scarcity. If you sell it to a dealer , you will get 30-40% of Redbook. If any of your coins has an "actual" value of less than $XX (you set the figure but I would say no less than $50-60), then it's not worth the cost to certify it. Even if it costs just $10-15 for the certification (if you send in more than 100 coins at once), you have eaten up a minimum of 20% of potential profit. You are better off setting your figure at $80-100 to fully offset the cost of a TPG. If I had to guess, I would say that over 90% of your stuff should/would sell as scrap silver. Except for silver dollars, which are .77 oz silver, all other silver US decimal coinage is .72 oz Ag for each face dollar. Most larger coin dealers will give you 88-90% of the silver quote price for scrap. So, if silver is $30/oz, then each face dollar is $23.10 full silver price .... 88-90% of that is $20.33 per face dollar. Silver dollars will be a bit more. Some dealers may give you less than 88%, depending on the avrage grade of what you give him .. well-worn coins don't weigh as much, so there is less silver. Whatever you do, don't sell your coins at one of the fake "Roadshow" set-ups at Hotels across North America .. they may only give you 5-10 times face, if that. One final caution ... NEVER sell you coins to the same dealer who gave you an appraisal, unless you know him/her extremely well and have done extended business with them before. Dealers are in the profession to make a profit and 100% of their profit comes from buying low and selling high ... dealers will purcahse coins at the least possible cost to them. I would also greatly shy away from dealers that just want to cherry-pick, skimming off the top 1-2% of your coins.[/QUOTE]
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