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<p>[QUOTE="-jeffB, post: 26712715, member: 27832"]My impression from the last ten or fifteen years is that <i>in general</i> .999 trades at somewhat less of a premium than 90%. (You pay less for it, but also get less when you sell it back.)</p><p><br /></p><p>That hasn't been the case during this latest spike, because refiners are backed up and refining 90% is more costly than refining (basically testing, then melting and re-casting) .999. When times are normal, I think 90% gets traded without getting melted down.</p><p><br /></p><p>I prefer 90% junk silver to .999 because it's easy for me to verify that 90% minor coinage is genuine. Bars and rounds are easier to fake, and harder (for me at least) to validate. If I see a random hand-poured bar, how can I be sure it doesn't have a chewy solder (tin/lead tuned to have the same density as silver) center? And even if I <i>am</i> sure, how do I convince someone who might buy it from me?[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="-jeffB, post: 26712715, member: 27832"]My impression from the last ten or fifteen years is that [I]in general[/I] .999 trades at somewhat less of a premium than 90%. (You pay less for it, but also get less when you sell it back.) That hasn't been the case during this latest spike, because refiners are backed up and refining 90% is more costly than refining (basically testing, then melting and re-casting) .999. When times are normal, I think 90% gets traded without getting melted down. I prefer 90% junk silver to .999 because it's easy for me to verify that 90% minor coinage is genuine. Bars and rounds are easier to fake, and harder (for me at least) to validate. If I see a random hand-poured bar, how can I be sure it doesn't have a chewy solder (tin/lead tuned to have the same density as silver) center? And even if I [I]am[/I] sure, how do I convince someone who might buy it from me?[/QUOTE]
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