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<p>[QUOTE="SilverSurfer, post: 800837, member: 21603"]Of course, if you do go the Indian half eagle or pre-1933 gold coin route, now you are getting more into numismatics. The grade of the coin will make a huge difference in the price. So, having knowledge on coin grading is a must. That's why I suggested getting advice from someone who knows about those coins and taking them with you. </p><p><br /></p><p>If on the other hand, you buy a brand new AGE from the mint, you are almost guaranteed that the coin will be in MS 67-69 condition. Beware of over grading when you buy, and beware of under grading when you sell if you go the Pre-1933 route. I think it is more important to have Pre-1933 gold coins graded then AGE, because slabbed, nobody can argue the grade of the coin....now it just become a dispute of what they will pay you when you sell it. Don't sell it for much less than what a reputable price guide says it's worth.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="SilverSurfer, post: 800837, member: 21603"]Of course, if you do go the Indian half eagle or pre-1933 gold coin route, now you are getting more into numismatics. The grade of the coin will make a huge difference in the price. So, having knowledge on coin grading is a must. That's why I suggested getting advice from someone who knows about those coins and taking them with you. If on the other hand, you buy a brand new AGE from the mint, you are almost guaranteed that the coin will be in MS 67-69 condition. Beware of over grading when you buy, and beware of under grading when you sell if you go the Pre-1933 route. I think it is more important to have Pre-1933 gold coins graded then AGE, because slabbed, nobody can argue the grade of the coin....now it just become a dispute of what they will pay you when you sell it. Don't sell it for much less than what a reputable price guide says it's worth.[/QUOTE]
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