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<p>[QUOTE="doug5353, post: 2137601, member: 73555"]You first have to decide whether you're going to be a stacker or a numismatist, when it comes to silver. Some purchases can overlap.</p><p><br /></p><p>The stacker buys the cheapest, most liquid, most recognizable silver available, and that is generally the 90% dimes, quarters, and halves pre-1965. </p><p><br /></p><p>The motive is to protect the buying power of your liquid assets. This conservative approach does not prevent you from guessing wrong.</p><p><br /></p><p>The numismatist buys a higher class of silver (or gold) for somewhat more money, paying a premium for proof gold coins instead of uncirculated, or limited-edition issues, or high-grade U.S. 19th Century gold. However...</p><p><br /></p><p>If gold and silver go way up in price over the next decade, then the premium you paid will evaporate, and while you have protected yourself far more than the average citizen in this country, you have still protected yourself less than persons who bought cheaper options, because you paid more, per ounce.</p><p><br /></p><p>How can you do both simultaneously? If I buy some rolls of silver dimes, I will pick out 3% or 4% of the coins as "too good for bullion," and put them aside, for example, an AU-BU slider 1946-S Roosevelt, or a really choice 1927 Mercury -- not rare coins, not valuable coins, but too good to mix with your bullion. That's it in a nutshell. The "practical" aspect of this personal policy is that someday, if you want to USE your silver to buy food and gas, etc., you want the smallest denominations so that sellers don't have to make change.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you need a quart of oil for your car, and all you have is an ASE, you're likely to take a beating on price.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now take cover while the usual gang of optimists here tell you that I'm crazy. If you don't plan ahead, and THINK ahead, there's no point in stacking at all. As the numismatist, if nothing goes wrong, then you have a nice collection of silver coins, but fewer ounces than the stackers, dollar for dollar spent. Also keep in the back of your mind that a silver dollar contains about 7% more silver than two half dollars, but the price premium is much more than 7%.</p><p><br /></p><p>Do I follow my own advice? Yes. I'm probably 60% dimes, 20% quarters, 10% halves, and 10% dollars and Eagles. NOOO rounds. NO foreign bullion coins. NO proof sets. Along the way, I've put together a very decent set of Mercuries from bag and roll searching, missing only the 1916-D, 1921-D, and 1942/1.</p><p><br /></p><p>The question of where to store them safely is a tedious 6-page blog.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="doug5353, post: 2137601, member: 73555"]You first have to decide whether you're going to be a stacker or a numismatist, when it comes to silver. Some purchases can overlap. The stacker buys the cheapest, most liquid, most recognizable silver available, and that is generally the 90% dimes, quarters, and halves pre-1965. The motive is to protect the buying power of your liquid assets. This conservative approach does not prevent you from guessing wrong. The numismatist buys a higher class of silver (or gold) for somewhat more money, paying a premium for proof gold coins instead of uncirculated, or limited-edition issues, or high-grade U.S. 19th Century gold. However... If gold and silver go way up in price over the next decade, then the premium you paid will evaporate, and while you have protected yourself far more than the average citizen in this country, you have still protected yourself less than persons who bought cheaper options, because you paid more, per ounce. How can you do both simultaneously? If I buy some rolls of silver dimes, I will pick out 3% or 4% of the coins as "too good for bullion," and put them aside, for example, an AU-BU slider 1946-S Roosevelt, or a really choice 1927 Mercury -- not rare coins, not valuable coins, but too good to mix with your bullion. That's it in a nutshell. The "practical" aspect of this personal policy is that someday, if you want to USE your silver to buy food and gas, etc., you want the smallest denominations so that sellers don't have to make change. If you need a quart of oil for your car, and all you have is an ASE, you're likely to take a beating on price. Now take cover while the usual gang of optimists here tell you that I'm crazy. If you don't plan ahead, and THINK ahead, there's no point in stacking at all. As the numismatist, if nothing goes wrong, then you have a nice collection of silver coins, but fewer ounces than the stackers, dollar for dollar spent. Also keep in the back of your mind that a silver dollar contains about 7% more silver than two half dollars, but the price premium is much more than 7%. Do I follow my own advice? Yes. I'm probably 60% dimes, 20% quarters, 10% halves, and 10% dollars and Eagles. NOOO rounds. NO foreign bullion coins. NO proof sets. Along the way, I've put together a very decent set of Mercuries from bag and roll searching, missing only the 1916-D, 1921-D, and 1942/1. The question of where to store them safely is a tedious 6-page blog.[/QUOTE]
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