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<p>[QUOTE="Stork, post: 3084763, member: 71642"]When does bullion cross into being a collectible is the question. </p><p><br /></p><p>Now, there are registries and folks who do blur that line of collecting vs. stacking. Myself, I have drifted away from that. Nice though that my 1 oz gold Chinese Unicorn went for about 4x spot in a trade (in a 69 slab) vs. the 1.1 x spot I paid for it raw.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you are STACKING, then an MS-70 slab vs. a 69, 68, or really anything else is kind of silly. It helps for liquidity and 'genuine' comfort when doing electronic sales...but IF IT'S JUST BULLION TO YOU, then a 70 is not cost effective.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you are COLLECTING what amounts to bullion coins (and I don't judge that, there is some pretty bullion out there) then buy what you like. Just be aware on the UNC versions (vs. proof) any premium will dry up when trying to sell.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Stork, post: 3084763, member: 71642"]When does bullion cross into being a collectible is the question. Now, there are registries and folks who do blur that line of collecting vs. stacking. Myself, I have drifted away from that. Nice though that my 1 oz gold Chinese Unicorn went for about 4x spot in a trade (in a 69 slab) vs. the 1.1 x spot I paid for it raw. If you are STACKING, then an MS-70 slab vs. a 69, 68, or really anything else is kind of silly. It helps for liquidity and 'genuine' comfort when doing electronic sales...but IF IT'S JUST BULLION TO YOU, then a 70 is not cost effective. If you are COLLECTING what amounts to bullion coins (and I don't judge that, there is some pretty bullion out there) then buy what you like. Just be aware on the UNC versions (vs. proof) any premium will dry up when trying to sell.[/QUOTE]
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