i am looking at buying some Canadian maples ngc ms69 silver ounces. I am being told they are milky but that is common for these coins. Is this true or should I be worried. Can how milky they are effect the value?
It depends on how many they make. If ten are made and they are all milky, it will not effect value. If 100 are made and 10 are milky they will be worth less. I think they are only worth the metal they are made of. I know a coin dealer that sends them in for melt, after he cut them out of there slabs.
I cannot remember EVER seeing one (all dates) that did not have at least one spot. I've never seen one that graded higher than 67 either. Usually the cheek is all messed up. A 70 would be a great coin to have! Unappreciated now.
RCM has been notorious about milk spotting for years, because they don't adequately clean their dies. For CMLs it doesn't really matter, since they're not a semi-numismatic play, but for their wildlife coins it definitely impacts the resale value making something potentially collectible into just a bullion coin. There are ways to mitigate the milk spotting. They're like invisible ink, and generally don't show up until exposed to a humid environment. So if you plan to pop your tube, make sure to capsule them right away. You can also clean milk spotting with a pencil eraser or jewelry wipes, but these will cause tiny scratches and while they could help general resale value they will hurt any potential grading. The safest way to clean these is with a product called "cloudy ammonia" AKA household ammonia cleaner.
THESE TWO PARAGRAPHS OF THS IGNORANT POST SHOULD BE REMOVED !!!!! Ammonia does not remove the "true" milk spots from the mint either.
Feel free to elaborate on why you think my information is bad. What's the difference between a true milk spot and a false one? Why exactly is my post ignorant? I've done the research.
@InfleXion wrote: "Feel free to elaborate on why you think my information is bad. Why exactly is my post ignorant? I've done the research." Note: Your research is commendable; but I've done conservation on actual coins. Suggesting that a collector rub their coins with a cloth or ERASER to remove spots is rubbish. As you posted YOURSELF, it leaves scratches. These are referred to as SCRATCH DAMAGE, SPOT REMOVAL, and CLEANING by the TPGS's, depending on the extent the coin is ruined by the suggestion you posted from your research! @InfleXion asks: "What's the difference between a true milk spot and a false one?" Experience. Most chemical stains (true "milk spots") on original coins from the mints cannot be removed. Some of the tiny ones can be removed enough to escape detection. Many "whitish" stains we find on our coins are different and often they are removed easily with chemicals. Sure wish I could tell you which chemicals and the methods to use but I'll need to do some research.
I was clear about the scratches and the impact to grading. Some people would rather have scratches that don't show up to the naked eye than milk spots (yours truly). For non-graded coins, milk spots will kill the price more than hairline scratches. Milk spotting ensures bullion price in many cases. I'd never buy a graded coin with spots, so it may not necessarily reduce the price of a graded coin, but it could reduce the number of prospective buyers and thus increase the time it takes to sell in the absence of lowering the price. Hairline scratches could still command semi-numismatic premiums if they aren't noticeable for non-graded coins, in which case jewelry wipes are a less intrusive alternative than erasers. I would never suggest a collector clean their coin in any way shape or form, and did not suggest doing so. I was merely outlining the ways it can be done, but since the OP is referring to a graded coin, I should have been clear about that. The only thing ignorant about my post is that I didn't post it in the context of pertaining to graded coin, and I should have been more clear, but the information itself is accurate. Frankly, you've done quite well at offending me, both with your unjustified salty attitude and your obnoxious formatting.
PS You are 100% correct. Some uninformed or young collectors would rather have scratched up worthless coins without spots! And apparently they cannot see scratches either but experienced and knowledgeable collectors can. That's probably why your recommended use of an eraser to remove spots was DROPPED from the numismatic literature in the 1960's. BTW, if you think you are upset...After reading your post, my kid has been scratching off all the tiny carbon spots and rainbow toning on her BU Lincoln collection to make them pretty! Thanks! You have certainly "moved the hobby forward" at my house with your brilliant observations! ALSO: I view spots the same as bag marks. I would NEVER pay a premium for a TPGS MS-69 with any more than one tiny "hidden" spot.
I think milk spotting is a bigger problem on RCM's lowest premium bullion. Maybe less of a problem on their numismatic coins? At least that's my admittedly limited experience. Pretty easy to find a PF70 on ebay. No milk spots after a year. But I've heard they can appear after months or years. I also bought a raw roll of these e=mc2 reverse proofs. Mostly spot-free, very pleased! I put 'em in air-tites right away. Hopefully that helps prevent spotting. And I've got one of their over-priced beautifully-minted fractional sets. Love it! I feel confident it'll stay spot-free.
Thanks for your post. I'll agree about the bullion coins. As for the Proof you posted, I cannot see the surfaces of your coin but it is nice that NCG gave you a grade of 70 and to know that yours has no spots or marks on the reverse that I can see. I am curious about the tiny dull white dot near the edge of the leaf vein at 9 O'clock. Anyway, on all ML's, the main area of imperfection is on the Queen's face. Unfortunately, the obverse is not shown so I cannot check for hairlines and marks in the photo post.
Don't judge by my poor photos -- reflections and dust and bad lighting and cell phone camera. And the slab has scratches (I bought it already-slabbed on ebay). So really, it's impossible to evaluate it from my photos. In-hand the 70 coin is spot-free. Looks great to my old eyes, really like it -- especially the 100-year commemorative e=mc2 privy (I'm a science guy). My point is, it's pretty easy to find a 70. With a little luck, it's spot-free. But whether it stays that way, only time will tell.
I completely agree with you. As I suspect MANY do...you were merely offering a plausible solution that readers can choose to do or not. The shameless attack was unwarranted and distasteful. This is the type of correspondence that destroys the very core of CT. When people start learning to respect other's opinion, regardless if they agree with it or not, then these forums will remain intact with an environment of willingness to help each other in the Numismatic journey we all take. I commend you for maintaining your professionalism during this commentary. Well done sir, well done.
Sir, are you serious? How many other members do you think would suggest using an erasure to remove spots from coins? The poster's follow up comment about scratches or not! Hey, @Jason Hoffpauir did you two ever consider that sulfuric acid removes spots too? Oh, but it etches the surface.
What you fail to realize it was a suggestion, only a suggestion, people are smart enough to choose for themselves what they want to do. YOU may disagree, but I am sure they could care LESS what you think, WHO you are, and WHY you suggestions are any better than the poster. All I am saying is this...respect what people say, regardless if you agree or disagree, and politely state your opposition against it or for it. There are far too many more important issues in LIFE to worry about than incorrectly or correctly removing milky spots. Now I implore to lets this go...too much time has been wasted on a silly topic. Enjoy what remains of your day.
It wasn't even a suggestion. I was merely outlining the different ways to remove milk spots should someone want to do so, since the usual unabrasive cleaning methods do not generally work. What people choose to do with that information is at their own discretion.
LOL...this movie itself is totally fiction...This is the example you believe in?...that "YOU" are smart; but people are dumb"? Well it is your right to think this...but using MIB to give a generalization on the human race's mentality is troubling to say the least, but whatever rocks your boat...LOL. P.S. If you were just being funny (whew!!! wipes forehead) then O.K. I get it...hope this is what you meant.
