Buying Graded Silver Eagles

If your intention is to collect the entire set of ASE may I suggest that you investigate the Census data of each set you are considering. People mention "Key Dates" for each coin, but that information is generally based on the total mintage produced by the US Mint. If you are considering collecting a set of NGC or PCGS in either PF69 or PF70 there may be different "Key Dates"

It is my understanding the the "Key Date" for NGC PF70 is 1993 with only 203 coins. The NGC PF69 "Key Date" is 1997 with 6,382 coins. What this means is that only 203 complete sets can be completed in NGC PF70 based on the coins that have been already graded versus 6,382 complete PF69 sets.

The difference in the Maximum number of coins graded in each Key Date will effect the overall cost of the sets.

I have been accumulating NGC PF69 ASE. I feel that the ASE is a beautiful coin especially in Proof condition.

Someone said that a PF70 is a PF70 is a PF70, BUT I have found that not all PF69 slabs are equal. These slabs have been owned and handled for a good many years, and the slabs do show scratches. Some of my slabs do not appear to have been handled gently. The quality of the photos that are available do Not in many cases identify the scratches. In fact, only after I have photographed my coins and magnified the image can I see scratches on the slab, etc.

Happy shopping, show us photos as your collection progresses.

 

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Thanks for the info! Any specific place to look for the info on numbers with a certain grade? As of right now.. My plan is to work on assembling the best full set of 69/70 that I can afford, then upgrade from there. From what I can see in pictures, I prefer the look of the PCGS holder, but that may change when I see them in person. I ordered a couple from both graders. Getting a quality coin is more important to me however. Also, assuming I have a true 70 from NGC, couldn't it be resubmitted to PCGS to be put in a new holder?

I just ordered several MS69's from MintProducts for $39.99 (just a heads up). Also, I don't know how far along with your collection you are or how often you add to it, or how you feel about eBay, but if you are interested I can keep an eye out on eBay for any dates that you need. Or if I have them and I'm upgrading I'd be more than willing to resell them to you for what I paid for them.

 

Mach330 thank you for the generous offer. I have all but four of the NGC PF69 Silver Eagle proofs. Three of them should be pretty easy, BUT the 1995 W is the one that I 'm not sure if I'll spend the $$ for.

What's ironic is that the 1995w currently sells based on the very low US Mintage of approx. 47K, but there are other years where the total number of coins graded and put into slabs are actually harder to find. These other years sell based on the aggregate US Mint production rather than the graded census.

The 2006 Reverse proof has total mintage of 248K vs 372K for for the 1993 P, but there are probably 35K more graded and slabed 2006 Reverse proofs than there are 1993 P which retails for approx. half the cost of the 2006 Reverse proof.

The Census / population data is a member benefit available to members of either PCGS or NGC.

 

Shoot, I'd worry more about scratches on the coin than scratches on the slab......

 

Very good post. But that part i quoted is the key. ALREADY GRADED. As you post later the graded population is much less then the minted pop so these numbers can an will change when people find reason to submit more of them. Such as the 95W you brought up. When there is money to be made people will get them graded and they will show up.

 

that's usually true in anything...the flow of actions by people lead in the way of least resistance to making more money. BUT with that there has to be the will of people to actually want to do those actions... to some people it's not always about the money involved but the product they have... I know alot of people that just figure that piece of plastic called a slab in just a waste of material and effort...you can look at the coin and "grade" it yourself...also you you gotta figure with the huge premiums on 1995 W's... why aren't they all already graded? my answer is some people just don't see the point... I personally think the numbers of graded 1995 W's will change in numbers growing and will always "trend" up but I also think the majority like 90% that will be graded have already been graded...

just my two cents IMHO

 

Another question, is there any difference in the 2006 Proof and the 2006 Proof - 20th Anniversary both from PCGS? The holders marked as part of the 20th anniversary set seem to be going for more money, but it's the exact same coin isnt it? So I might as well get the cheaper one? Or am I missing something?

Will all 3 slabs in the set have the same serial number? Or can you mix and match to build a 69 or 70 set? I don't want to make a poor buying decision and lose collector value. Thanks!

 

2006 Anniversary Silver Eagle

This is a NGC 2006 Anniversary Reverse Proof which is different from the other 2006 proof or the other 20th Anniversary coins.

Oh and then there are the First Strike 2006 and just the "regular" proof silver eagles.

 

Dave - I'm asking if there is a difference between the regular proof and the "20th anniversary" regular proof? There are holders marked "2006 Proof" "2006 Proof - 20th Anniversary" and "2006 Reverse Proof - 20th Anniversary". Thanks!

 

It is my understanding that 20th Anniversary graded coins originated from the approx. 248,875 20th anniversary sets. The other proofs were graded from the other 843,602 proofs minted that year.

The 20th anniversary sets are composed of three silver eagles: Reverse Proof, Proof, Unc.

I am not familiar with PCGS labels. I collect NGC Silver Eagles.

 

Do you think it would be smarter to get the cheaper proof NOT labelled as 20th anniversary, or spend the money and get the 20th anniversary slab? The coin is really all that is important to me, but I'm trying to think about value down the road. Also, do you know if the 3 coin set has the same serial number on each slab, or are they all different so you could build a set of 3 1-by-1?

 

I believe that in order for you to get the 20th anniversary designation on the label, both third party services required you to send in the set (unopened) exactly the way you received it from the mint. If I'm wrong, then someone please correct me.

My feeling about the regular proof coin itself is that there is absolutely no difference between the two, that being the one in the 20th anniversary set and the one that was offered separately. The real pricey coin is the reverse proof as it was the first and only time the mint has done that process. The uncirculated version was the first time that a coin from that particular series showed a "W" mint mark. Up until then only proofs contained a mint mark. It was also struck from burnished dies which further distinguish it from the regular business strike.

IMHO you can assemble your own 20th anniversary set for a lot less money than one with the designation. In terms of "value down the road" it probably doesn't make much difference but there will be some who would disagree........

 

I collect world coins and don't have a single ASE, but I noticed this auction for a complete set of ASE's from 1986-2008 in MS70 while going through world coin auctions looking for my own things... I don't know anything about them an aren't affiliated or know the seller at all, just thought I'd post this here, maybe someone will get them cheaper than what they'd normally go for if they were listed in the right category:

http://cgi.ebay.com/1986-2008-23-CO...972?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a431fbc4

 

I wouldn't trust the grading by that particular outfit.....

 

aren't those self slabbers? I mean couldn't anyone just say they are 70's?

 

I think the bullion coins are going to trade for quality over the long term (especially some of the lower quantity mintage years). That said, I would not pay the current premium for MS70 coins. An MS61 to 63 set seems to be the sweet spot for value appreciation to me.

 

MS 69 Sets are easier to get than 70 of course, but don't let that discourge you from purchasing a MS 70 coin if your budget allows it. I asked a dealer once what the difference between at MS 69 and an MS 70 was. He said "Not much, other than price." He even suggested buying 69s if one is to go the route in collecting in holders. I agree to go with NGC also. Having an MS70 perfect coin is nice, but to me is a luxury and only purchased if the budget allows. Such as this fine coin. My first comm.

 

70's really aren't worth the money you pay for them. It's better when you can submit the coins that come back as 70's.

Chris

 

Agree. Unless the coin is rare or unique, grading adds no numismatic value, only collectible value -- to those who enjoy collecting them.

 

Bullion coins are just that, bullion. ASEs are beautiful and I do own some but none are slabbed. You've been given great advice so if you love them, collect them but I agree that they command a premium for their condition even though none of them have ever circulated so they all look great. I also agree that it's absurd to pay hundreds of dollars for a high grade state quarter that is one of 338 million and has zero metal value. If you love the design and want to spend some money on a great collection, try a set of walking liberty halves. Not that I have a full set or as many examples as I would like but it's fun to try.