I have a signed copy of John Wright's The Cent Book for the middle dates. It may be unique since I also obtained Mabel's signature as well.
I really don't remember seeing this many rarities when I used to peruse eBay. But here's another one I couldn't pass up: Here are my die attribution images.
Does that mean Sheldon-24? Im new to Sheldons, I tagged you in another post for someone, did you see that? Heres a link anyways: https://www.cointalk.com/threads/17...-rotated-die-no-big-deal.301220/#post-2823398
That is obverse 24 since the die obverses are numbered and the reverses are lettered. The pairing make the Sheldon Number with many dies are paired with multiple dies on it's flip side. Each has it's own Sheldon Number. In this case, it is Obverse 24 paired with Reverse Y which is the S-117. Obverse 25 is also paired with Reverse Y on the 1796 NC-6 and Obverse 25 is also paired with Reverses Z and AA on S-118 and S-119.
How is this for a brain lapse? This is my S-206: Could I have had a Perfect Die Reverse all along? I really need a sharper image of my own coin, but I can't see anything in the copper. But My eyes aren't as revealing as a good image.
I got my Digital Microscope working again and took this photo of MY S-206. It certainly answered the question about being a perfect die reverse. Definitely NOT!
I just picked this up and as usual with 1800s, I have a tentative identification with elements which don't seem quite right.
S-192 Die State I is my tentative Identification. The things which bug me are the distance of the ES of STATES and the location of the 1 in the date. While I can find examples which match, I can also find examples where the ES is closer and the 1 is higher
Here is another 1800/1798 I just picked up. The reverse is useless so I'll just show the Obverse. I think this is a good one, but I've been wrong before.
Well for starters you called it a 1800/1798 which it obviously isn't because it has type 2 hair. I can see why you think it might be what you are hoping for, but I just can't see enough in the images to confirm it. There is just too much damage/corrosion for me to tell if I am seeing details or corrosion. A good overlay might help to confirm exact placement of the date digits but that is about all I can suggest.
I thought all the 1800 overdates were considered 1800/1798 and not just the Style/Type 1 hair overdate. The style/type 2 hair was the eliminator for (Sheldon's) Obverse 1. I was also left uncertain, but noticed rust(?) spots which match other NC-2s. This might be a good case study to use in attribution of borderline unattributable coins. I'd love to have the assistance of those capable of overlays. I'm using comps which are all subject to strike differences, die state differences, corrosion and PMD. Now that I have the coin in hand, I think I'll present a presentation of my thinking while going through the attribution process. It may not be attributable at all, but I love the process. Stay tuned. ( I just realized how old that makes me sound)
No only the one die is 1800/1798, the rest are 1800/179. This can be seen on very high grade coins, only the one die shows any traces of an 8 in the final 0. Jon Lusk had an excellent program for doing overlays called Numistudy. You could take images of two coins, enlarge them and select the same three points on each image (You enlarged the images to make sure the points you selected on each coin were as close to being in the exact same place as possible). Then the program would automatically scale both images to the same size and rotation, then overlay them so the three points of each corresponded. Then you could vary the opacity of the top image to see if there was any variance of positioning of features. It was a great way to confirm varieties. It had another feature were you would select four predetermined points on an image of your coin and it would calculate the ratio of the two lines thus established and compare it to the ratios of known varieties to provide a list of the most likely varieties your coin could be. I have a copy of the program. It ran on my old Windows 98 machine which no longer functions. It was supposed to work on my XP machine but I could never get it to install, neither could Jon. I have been told that it will work on Windows 10 as well, and I still have the program, but I have misplaced the USB dongle the program requires to run. I haven't talked to Jon for awhile so I don't know if the program is still available. (Or if I could get a replacement dongle)
Here are seller's photos of a 1798 I just picked up. I'm a novice at attribution. Perhaps S-185 but I don't see any of the die chip diagnostics? Any help would be appreciated. BTW it's not as visible in the photo but the "u" in "united" has something funky going on.