I was wondering what you thought of the deep blue in the Tru Views! Nice pics by the way. The true views show the surface, and at what degree the toning has caused. Good call, I'd a welcomed it with a custom Mahogany case. On order of course. @SuperDave
Sanderson, post: 2634130, member: 77413"]I just cannot capture this 1917 Philadelphia cent's personality with a camera. In hand, the reverse's luster radiates beneath a deep maroon color. It's like looking into a glass of burgundy. The 1917-D shows some obverse die erosion, especially noticeable around IN GOD WE TRUST, the L in LIBERTY, and the date. Yet the reverse is fresh and sharp. It even has a completely filled out O that is hard to find. Both sides retain attractive mint luster around the devices. Sometimes I wonder about the eBay sellers - this was advertised as "1917-D Lincoln Cent nice original VF-XF". I see only the merest touches of abrasion on a coin struck from a worn die, not wear. The 1917-S was posted in post #4110 with the seller's photos. These are new. I didn't know coins came with sunset scenes on the reverse. Not merely is this coin Brown, but it seems to have every possible shade of brown represented somewhere. View attachment 580096 View attachment 580097 View attachment 580098 [/QUOTE]
My gf found this today from a pile of pennies. Definitely a keeper Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I also found this today. can you guys shine some light on what's happening on the reverse of this cent? Thanks guys Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I was about 15, in 1965, I won $30 in a math contest and bought a 1931-D Lincoln. I remember it as being around AU with a bit of original color, but that was a long time ago. This first 1931-D cost me half that, 50 years later! I conserved it a tiny bit, as discussed in another post. I really like the subtlety of the colors in this 1931-S. I didn't want to embed this with the other three, because it sort of grabs the attention away from them. So I have intentionally spaced it further down the page. As @SuperDave was saying about his new 1910-S, it's hard to find the angle that makes the color pop. In hand it is the woody effect that predominates. (I'm sure Dave will find it for his photos! Waiting expectantly...) These new pictures are upgrades to photos in posts #4042, #11, #8584, and #107, respectively.
I didn't plan to have two 1932's. I was working towards a simple year set, just one example per year. I wasn't even going to get any mint marks. I got most of them up to the mid-30's. Then I found a set gathering dust at the LCS that dovetailed with mine and ran up to 1991. So I do have some duplicates over the next four or five years, after all. The first one I bought individually, and the second is from the set. These photos upgrade the ones in posts #4054 and #4109.
This was supposed to be a post of a 1915-S, which would have brought me down to just a single remaining coin that I hope to get. Instead, this is what I got in the mail. It is completely empty. This was through eBay and the package is insured. What do I do next?
Just bought a very nice '17d....lustrious, with magnificent toning! Would love to know how you guys take such awesome pics
very nice! Im trying to do an '09-'33 year set....but im sure ince that is done, ill focus on the entire set '09-'33. Just have to be careful, as my ambition is larger than my bank account!
The majority of people who take high-resolution images like these - and mind, none of the images you see posted by them here are larger than half-size, many only one-third or one-quarter of actual size as taken - use a dSLR camera. Some use a fairly expensive dedicated Macro lens, others (like myself) use a bellows in conjunction with film duplicating lenses.