Thanks. I may have benefited by the seller's pictures on eBay. They show the strike but fail on the color. That may have deterred some bidders. This will give a better idea.
Somehow I missed posting these Denver cents along with their compatriots. Later in the date set the coins are all red. I really like the 20's and 30's that I have posted because each one seems to have its unique appearance. Two 1928-D's Previously shown in "Post your coin photography set-up" as post #102. I think that is not a dent or ding inside the C, but is a pit in the planchet. There is no pushed up metal around it, as there would be with a hit. Instead, the top edges appear to be pinched together from the impact of the die. 1929-D 1932-D
I did not have a 1917-S. This was on eBay from the dealer I bought the 1928-D's from (among others) so I have an element of trust built up. I just took the plunge and bought it. Besides, I could not resist the way the woody toning on the reverse looks like a sunset. Seller's photos, cropped and background removed ...
And have a happy '17. (Yes, I know it's "Post your Lincolns!" - there's a Lincoln in here, too.) Each of these will complete a century this year.
A pair of 1936 Philadelphia mint issues. The first is raw, the second is graded. I wonder which is actually better? The raw one is from a set, so I paid about $1.25. Raw The darkness on the jaw is just a shadow. Graded MS66 RD
Could be, could be... And my picture may be at fault, too. I changed the lighting and tried again with different orientations.
@BadThad inspired me to take a closer look at my photo technique. At first, I had tried a Sony super-zoom camera with disappointing results. Then I switched to the iPhone and learned a lot about lighting. But post #4116 has pointed up the limitations - the detail just isn't there, even if the colors are. I took what I used for lighting and switched back to the Sony. This is a better combination of color and detail than I could get with the iPhone. The practice with the lighting has really helped.