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<p>[QUOTE="Valentinian, post: 4175660, member: 44316"]I like it for this. I don't want the AE mixed in with the silver. Like, most, almost all my RR coins are silver. I want them together and not divided by AE.</p><p><br /></p><p>I use volume I of RSC (which is not written by Sear) because many European sellers identify Republican coins by family and not chronologically. Many coins have the family name on them and they can be looked up in RSC and that gives the date. I tried mightily to learn the dates of Republican issues and I even made a website on dating them:</p><p><br /></p><p><a href="http://augustuscoins.com/ed/Repub/TimelineTable.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://augustuscoins.com/ed/Repub/TimelineTable.html" rel="nofollow">http://augustuscoins.com/ed/Repub/TimelineTable.html</a></p><p><br /></p><p>You'd think after all that study I could look at a Republican type and give you the date, but often I cannot. So, I prefer RCV I for its chronological order (and separation of silver) but I use RSC I quite a bit too.</p><p><br /></p><p>About prices. Why does anyone think that the "grade" of a Republican coin ought to translate to a correct "price" in a book? We are not buying US coins in slabs. Grading and pricing of ancient coins is many times as complicated as a simple "price guide" relationship would suggest. Read [USER=19463]@dougsmit[/USER] 's posts for a proper amount of cynicism.</p><p><br /></p><p>However, a price guide is useful for comparative prices. If a number of coins in a row are 50 pounds in some grade and the next one is 85 pounds, you can expect to pay more now for that type than for the other types. Don't expect any price guide for ancient coins to do more than that.</p><p><br /></p><p>Personally I find that quite useful. If there is a Republican type I don't know well in a condition that might be $100 for some coins I do know well, I can look it up. Then when the book says "60 pounds" for the types I know and "200 pounds" for the new type I don't know, I now understand it might go for $300 (or a lot more or somewhat less). Price guides are mostly right about <b>relative</b> values. But, you have to already know some current prices before the book values can be converted to actual current dollar values.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Valentinian, post: 4175660, member: 44316"]I like it for this. I don't want the AE mixed in with the silver. Like, most, almost all my RR coins are silver. I want them together and not divided by AE. I use volume I of RSC (which is not written by Sear) because many European sellers identify Republican coins by family and not chronologically. Many coins have the family name on them and they can be looked up in RSC and that gives the date. I tried mightily to learn the dates of Republican issues and I even made a website on dating them: [URL]http://augustuscoins.com/ed/Repub/TimelineTable.html[/URL] You'd think after all that study I could look at a Republican type and give you the date, but often I cannot. So, I prefer RCV I for its chronological order (and separation of silver) but I use RSC I quite a bit too. About prices. Why does anyone think that the "grade" of a Republican coin ought to translate to a correct "price" in a book? We are not buying US coins in slabs. Grading and pricing of ancient coins is many times as complicated as a simple "price guide" relationship would suggest. Read [USER=19463]@dougsmit[/USER] 's posts for a proper amount of cynicism. However, a price guide is useful for comparative prices. If a number of coins in a row are 50 pounds in some grade and the next one is 85 pounds, you can expect to pay more now for that type than for the other types. Don't expect any price guide for ancient coins to do more than that. Personally I find that quite useful. If there is a Republican type I don't know well in a condition that might be $100 for some coins I do know well, I can look it up. Then when the book says "60 pounds" for the types I know and "200 pounds" for the new type I don't know, I now understand it might go for $300 (or a lot more or somewhat less). Price guides are mostly right about [B]relative[/B] values. But, you have to already know some current prices before the book values can be converted to actual current dollar values.[/QUOTE]
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