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<p>[QUOTE="cladking, post: 361261, member: 68"]Modern coins are easier to grade than classics since surface conditions are rarely an issue. If a modern looks unc then it is unc and hasn't been played with. </p><p><br /></p><p>Grading is subjective largely because there is no truly formal way to weight its various aspects. Strike and die condition are critical in the highest grades but how critical? Marks are important in all unc grades but how are different sized marks in different locations weighted? Many moderns have planchet scratches, are these factored in? How about PL? Is some marking to be given a pass because it wouldn't show up if the coin weren't PL?</p><p><br /></p><p>If you take MS-67 and 66 moderns that are typical in every regard for their grade then anyone could learn to spot the difference in a few minutes. </p><p><br /></p><p>Another thing is certain as well; the best quality is always the best no matter what grade you call it whether it's a 200 year old coin or a 30 year old coin.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="cladking, post: 361261, member: 68"]Modern coins are easier to grade than classics since surface conditions are rarely an issue. If a modern looks unc then it is unc and hasn't been played with. Grading is subjective largely because there is no truly formal way to weight its various aspects. Strike and die condition are critical in the highest grades but how critical? Marks are important in all unc grades but how are different sized marks in different locations weighted? Many moderns have planchet scratches, are these factored in? How about PL? Is some marking to be given a pass because it wouldn't show up if the coin weren't PL? If you take MS-67 and 66 moderns that are typical in every regard for their grade then anyone could learn to spot the difference in a few minutes. Another thing is certain as well; the best quality is always the best no matter what grade you call it whether it's a 200 year old coin or a 30 year old coin.[/QUOTE]
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