Unfortunately this coin also strikes me as a polish job. It would definitely be a very nice MS if it wasn't.
You may need to take some classes. It appears I'm not making any sense. Try this observable FACT I've learned from professional TPGS graders: The only things that prevent a FH designation are these in order of importance: 1. Ignorance. 2. Strike weakness (from whatever the cause). 3. Worn dies (full design never there). 4. Severe damage after the coin was struck - as in the head is scraped away (I've seen many of these). Please explain how a coin with a fully struck head showing complete design details can become not full head with a few hits? Technically it cannot; however, as we all know, grading is subjective so you can hold YOUR OWN opinion. BTW I'm also waiting for you to explain why your statement of opinion in Post#11 was inserted (to give it some "weight?") in the middle of two authentic grading service quotes as it has no relevance to observable facts or actual TPGS standards!
Now we are getting somewhere as we agree on this. "Chatter" is often used to describe the "original planchet surface impact" (OPSI) or "tumbling marks" from planchet preparation that were not completely struck out on the coin due to many reasons (five come to mind immediately). However, they are not commonly seen on SL quarters but are very common on other coin denominations and types. Polishing does not produce chatter. Nevertheless, I have heard some students use that term to describe the wavy surface of an extremely whizzed or polished coin.
It wasn't. As stated in that post, the PCGS standard was added as an edit. The interpretation of the ANA standard was the end of the original post.
I read no where in any standard where hits eliminate a FH designation. Thanks for the education; color me uninformed.
I'm in agreement with Insider on this. FB on the Mercury Dime and Roosevelt Dime as well as FBL on the Franklin Half all state that a hit that interrupts the line will be precluded from being designated as such. The FH designation makes no preclusions from being designated as such due to a hit. As long as the detail is there and it is identifiable even with small hits, it's a FH. Now if the hit is harsh enough to completely wipe away the detail in the head, then obviously it cannot be called a FH as there is no detail to designate it.
So does everyone mostly agree it would be a waste of money getting it slabbed? I think I read somewhere in another thread on this site that a person could carry the coin around in their pocket for a while to get rid of the polished appearance. Is that true and would it be unethical or pointless? I'm new to this level of collecting and a lot of what everyone is writing is still going over my head, so go easy on me. I'm really wanting to put a complete set of these together and purchased this coin raw for $200.00.
It would almost certainly receive a details grade and is not worth the cost of submission IMO. If I were you, I'd return it if you could. The coin does not look natural and you can certainly do better for $200. If you are interested in doing a complete set, be warned, it is not an easy one by any means.
Yes, you'll be much better off buying a graded coin. SLQs in AU58-FH or MS63-FH are usually excellent coins. Sorry, but that would be pointless in this case
Ok, thanks for all the responses. Lesson learned and I'll be sticking to graded coins from this point forward.
Speaking about heads, anybody ever have Dogfish Head? It's a Delaware brew, and I'm enjoying one, now. It's also a kick in the head, at 9% - oh, you were saying?
If he's new, it's sometimes best to play it safe. When he gets his whiskers wet he can do what you and I like to do.........
It's an excellent decision until he gets the knowledge to grade coins and detect cleaned and counterfeit coins. How many more hundreds and perhaps thousands of dollars do you propose that he lose in the interim?
Don't get me wrong, I don't intend to never go "raw" again.(lol) I went to my first coin show only a few months ago and I was completely lost. Purchased this coin and a gold Mercury and over paid for both. No big deal but I don't want to keep doing that. I joined this site and now I'm learning and as Santinidollar suggests, gaining the "knowledge" needed to do it right.