Worth of this VG/F seated quarter.

I think maybe the problem in this thread is that melto or a little above is probably dealer buy price. You have to realize that dealers buy for resale so it's going to be 40% or more of the retail value. So if retail is $20, you wouldn't expect a dealer to buy for much more than $10 because they will then turn around and try to sell at retail or sometimes slightly less.

Now, to a collector a coin will be worth more because they probably don't intend to resell the coin so for most collectors buy price is retail +/- a few bucks.

So if Doug and Book mean that dealers might not pay more than melt, they could be right but I would expect a sale to a collector to go for significantly more.

 

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Why are you so insistent and conceded about your own ignorance? A dealer would give you around melt. Ask around.

 

In my region. Admissions to shows are free. The table cost for me as a dealer is about $30.00.. I sell enough other things to cover my costs and make a decent profit. I dont have pictures because the auction was over 60 days ago. They weren't bad looking and most were the rays and arrows tupe. I liked them but didn't really have a need for most of them. The nice ones went in my type set. I am a dealer though so I buy at wholesale and sell at wholesale too to customers or other retail dealers. I make a small margin but pass a lot of savings to my customers, especially when they buy In bulk from me

 

This is another mark of ignorance. There is nothing wrong with challenging NGC. They are human, they make plenty of mistakes, whether they grade something incorrectly, misidentify or slab a fake coin. If you trust slabs so much then get this coin slabbed and prove us wrong.

 

Just take into account the number of coins that get slabbed each year and you see how many people it must take to grade that many coins (between all TPGs). With that many people grading, not all of them can be top end graders and then you toss in the volume of coins graded and mistakes are going to happen.

 

I have had enough of your rude comments. I have added you to my ignore list and will remember his name Hull Coins as something to avoid.

 

The ego-driven nonsense is all your own. Doug and I were simply trying to give you advice, yet are rewarded with this? Here is the fact, Buddy... if offered that coin I would pay no more than I would for ANY other junk silver... period. If selling it would go the same way as its not worth my time. I am not trying to be snarky, rude, or anything other than honest. Instead of respecting the opinions of people who might just know a little more than yourself, you give the same lame excuses over and over. Whatever. I've nothing to prove to you and there is no way I could prove it other than video taping a coin going into the pot, but there is no point since you would not believe it anyways. People who buy junk lots will often pull anything that could be viewed as being "better" and put them up on ebay for someone like you to buy. Does this PROVE anything? No. Just because someone on ebay will pay more, this does not make a coin worth that amount. Believe what you want.. I could not care less either way, but if you continue down this road the only one who will end up losing is you. Stick with this a few years and just maybe you will think back and realize that the two guys only trying to help you were right after all. We've all made mistakes, but those who are willing to learn and listen are the ones who usually end up for the better. Take whichever path best suits you, my friend.

This is why you cannot and probably will not find any... because you will not take the initiative to find what you want on your own. Its easier to sit back and spew nonsense or throw bids on ebay than it is to make friends or contacts. If you want help, ASK FOR IT, but if you think anyone is going to go out of their way to find you coins when acting like this, you are sadly mistaken. Nontheless, some of us have better things to do that argue over a five and change coin. I sincerely wish you the best of luck in your search. Have fun.

 

I tried defending you a bit in this thread because I do think the coins are probably worth more than Doug and Book are saying but you seriously cannot take information that you don't want to hear. I always love when people whip out formal education as some sort of qualification for a hobby that cannot be learned via formal education. Perhaps a history degree or something like that could help you be a better numismatist but much of the hobby is based on seeing and studying coins, so you're degree is largely invalid around here. I bet there are people here with more impressive educational backgrounds as well, so we probably don't want to go down that road.

You think your coins are worth $28, then try to sell them for that and see what happens. You also don't need to get snarky about all of this (not that you're the only one being snarky), people here are trying to help you out. Maybe they're right, maybe they're wrong no need to attack them or put them down because you don't like their estimates. In a case like this, a simple "I respectfully disagree" (and leave it at that) should be enough to get you point across without being snarky or trying to put down their level of knowledge on coins (I think they are actually quite knowledgeable from what I read).

The great thing about the hobby is that nobody really knows what a coin will sell for until it is sold.

 

I don't need defending and don't really think it is required to have an advanced degree to provide evidence supporting your opinions. I used this guide while bidding but do realize this guide may be old and obsolete: http://www.coinstudy.com/seated-liberty-quarter-values.html
The prices here are higher:
http://www.usacoinbook.com/coins/quarters/seated-liberty/

I know that Ebay gets higher prices but when shopping at a local PM dealer with prices that have not been updated seated quarter prices were considerably higher than other series where I did find common date VG coins at close to melt. I did find a seated quarter with significantly more wear that has been polished I would expect to go for melt with a day left on the bidding going for more than what I paid:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1854-w-arrows-and-stars-Silver-Seated-Half-Dollar-Free-S-H?item=230804738808&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D9116578596815041091

Perhaps it needs a big hole and no date to bring down to 1 or 2 over melt. I am sure that there are amazing deals out there put in some junk bin mistakenly or bought at wholesale prices but that is certainly not the norm. I would accept a price of $18 as a couple people mentioned and that would bring a profit of $5. Here are some coins I bought when melt was closer to $6 but didn't find any seated anywhere near these prices:

 

The prices you are looking at assume a non-problem coin and your coin would likely considered a problem coin. I think that if it were not for the potential problem coin label you might see $18-$20, but no dealer would give you that or any collector who realizes the problem. The coin on ebay that you link to may be more worn but may not be a problem coin, though that thing in the 2 o'clock position could also make it a problem coin.

IMO, from a dealers POV that coin isn't worth $20 when buying, maybe if you find the right collector (Ebay) you can get that much. I think that the collectors here on CT are a lot more knowledgeable than the average ebay coin buyer, so I think the prices you get here are more what you'd see at a coin show or shop.

 

It states in the description of the coin I provided a link to that the coin has been polished which is a problem coin. I would consider that coin to have more problems than my coin does since it states in the description the coin is polished and it has been made white-faced not to mention the coin has significant wear. You can't really tell from an Internet post who knows what but I have seen coins with more problems than mine going for more. I certainly don't need a perfect coin and realize that many coins this old have been cleaned and that does detract from the price but not nearly what people are stating. In the one guide the "good" coin looks like it has significantly more wear than my coin but do to cleaning this coin may be downgraded. I personally downgrade when issues are presented to me but realize some people do not. The coin study guide also appears old and often guides like this list coins far below melt. I do know coin shop prices and seated coins are significantly more than other coin types and they may discount due to issues but sometimes they don't. I am not saying this coin hadn't been cleaned in its lifetime, but as someone else mentioned, not recently. It could have been cleaned 50-100 years ago. Of course though if I sold the coin directly to someone else I would get more where a dealer needs to make a profit but would never go lower than what I paid since it is worth at the very least that.

 

Well, if you are so sure of what you can get for the coin why did you bother posting it for appraisal? Obviously you were going to reject any estimate lower than you expected. Again, I don't think you would have trouble getting $18-$20 on ebay for it, but in other venues you probably wouldn't get that much. Heck, on Ebay you might see $30 for that coin but ebay isn't the true market for coins.

 

That other coin is a half, I didn't realize that, still going at $5 over melt worn and polished with I am guessing silver polish. One way to get an appraisal is bring to a coin shop and ask what they would buy and sell it for. I am not rejecting honest appraisals just those that are far off. Everyone can't be right you know? If you look through the posts, this coin has been graded anywhere between G06 and F12 and is worth a dollar or two over melt to $20 but I know from personal experience you can't buy them for a dollar or two over melt anywhere but if I saw one I would be sure to buy it and list on Ebay. Although some people are knowledgable on this forum doesn't mean that everyone is. Some people can be relatively new to coins and new to the forum while others can be new to the forum but not new to coins. It just depends. I certainly wouldn't believe something just because it is on the Internet but you can often tell who's opinion seems more credible than others since as I mentioned, opinions can vary greatly. People repeating something someone states does not make it fact.

 

I just picked up this lot, tell me what y'all think
http://www.ebay.com/itm/130711329032?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_500wt_922

 

Not trying to get in the middle of this, but Buddy you asked for people's advice, experienced numismatists gave it to you, and you dismissed it. You made the statement how opinions had to be backed up with facts. They were giving you facts, what their pay price would be, or what they have bought similar for. There are no other "facts" in coin collecting really.

You can point to Ebay, but have you accounted for the fees? Dealers need to sell for more there to break even with selling in person.

Personally, I find the coin to be downgraded to a VG due to the dull, overcleaned surfaces. I believe it would go for more than melt, and a dealer should pay you a little more than melt, but that opinion is just that, an opinion. With a problem coin like this, no price guide, (and they tend to be too high to begin with), helps since problem coins frequently sell for half cat or less every day. There simply is no "proof" sir.

Btw, I can buy problem free circulated barbers for melt, and a problem SL coin for not much more, and for melt if too worn. It could be a function of where you are looking.

For my own background, just so you may evaluate its efficacy, I have collected coins for about 35 years now, (first 20 US coins only). Also, I have my grad degree as well, (taught it actually). I simply don't see how it applies. I will trust a HS grad with 50 years expertise in dealing coins more than 100 newly minted MS, MA, or MBA holders.

Chris

 

It is hard to tell, melt on those coins is 102.80 correct? I hope you get some that are not too worn and have some details than you got a deal. The picture is far and blurry. I like the coins I got from the junk bin at the PM dealer and there is no concern over value and whether you got a good deal. Of course the best deal you can get is when you coin roll hunt. Quarters are 25 cents at the bank and dimes are 10 cents. At the PM shop I got 5 mercury dimes and 5 silver Roosevelts for $21 and the Barber quarter below for $5. Buying coins at spot you don't have to worry about all these "problem coins" and whether you bought them. I wanted some seated coins where I could see all the details and wasn't convinced I could get this at melt or I would. The ones I saw were worn to nothing with a hole right through the head. That does make me wonder if the PM dealer has any seated in his junk bins. I know he has walkers, Barbers, and mercs because I bought them not to mentioned the coins close to melt that were in the book. But I am not buying any coins unless they are close to melt and just buying junk silver and if I get a good coin, great. If I can only get melt for this seated coin I bought, you know it would get a whole drilled in it, put it in a jewelery cleaner, and take sandpaper to it to get rid of some details. Then you will see a problem coin.

 

I don't believe we are saying its easy, but with higher silver prices I have seen a lot more low grade/problem SL coinage in junk silver bins than before. I have been buying junk silver for 25 years, and in the 90's all you ever would rarely see would be a slick with just the outline of SL design. Just last month I saw a g/ag half, and 5 or 6 problem vg/f SL dimes in junk bins at a show here.

We are just saying that is where the market is, but again I believe yours is slightly better than that level of a SL coin, especially due to it being an arrows type. I was simply saying their advice was not wrong, it was not mine, but not "wrong".

Btw that is a really nice barber for junk price. I would buy those all day long by the roll.

 

Silver was briefly about $50/ ounce in early 1980.....kind of about equal to $150 in today's dollars. At that time stuff like this couldn't be melted fast enough and stuff like original BU bags of Silver dollars went straight into the melting pot along with Granny's silverware.

Ask a guy like Lost Dutchman what he'd do with it !

 

Collect what you enjoy, but one should also have some interest in getting value. I guarantee it will only be worth melt if silver triples or better some time soon. I'd rather own two 1964 quarters.

Coins are a bad investment in general.

Holding bullion in coin form is way different than numismatic coins.

 

You can find great stuff in junk silver sometimes.

Sure, you get some great stuff in junk silver. The Barber quarter to the left almost has full liberty although cleaned. The Walker below was also in the junk bin. You don't have worry about all these "problems" when you buy junk silver. Since the coin I posted is already "heavily cleaned" I may clean it. Why leave it like that if it is a problem coin. If people told me I could only get melt for it, I would throw it in a jewelry cleaner, than some bleach, then use sandpaper on it, smack it with hammer, and create a hole through the head. Same with the SL below I bought because it had nice details for $23. If that was worth junk it would get the same. But anyhow, that is why I like the junk silver at the local PM dealer as oppose to this collector crap and all of these "problems". If I like something I buy it but with junk silver you can't go wrong so I simply am not buying another coin over spot and a slight premium. I also bought coins out of the book for around the same prices since they weren't priced in a while. But as I mentioned, I'll never buy anything but junk silver close to spot again. If you get a good coin, great. If not, you always have the silver content. Of course the best deal is the 14 silver dimes I found searching rolls including two mercury dimes, those were $1.40.