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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Larry Moran, post: 532476, member: 4580&quot;]Grading is usually based on traditional grading precepts plus one&#039;s personal experience, which can combine elements into a standard grade.</p><p><br /></p><p>Photos could be better, but I&#039;ll try.&nbsp; : )</p><p><br /></p><p>U1:&nbsp; I can&#039;t tell from photo but may be VF or even EF. Glare on some important grading areas obscures details.</p><p>U2:&nbsp; F-12.</p><p>B1:&nbsp; Can&#039;t tell from photo, perhaps F-15 or VF-20.</p><p>B2:&nbsp; F-15 (may actually grade the same or lower than U2, hard to tell).</p><p><br /></p><p>I believe there is a good chance that all would grade Fine, in hand, but U1 and B1 could be better.&nbsp; Do you have a scanner?&nbsp; Or, could you rearrange lighting to avoid glare on coins?&nbsp; I have difficulty grading confidently any coin&nbsp; with large all-white areas in a photo.&nbsp; No detail can be discerned in burned out, all-white areas.&nbsp; : )</p><p><br /></p><p>Some may be worth marginally better than melt value.&nbsp; This series is not that popular in lower grades.&nbsp; That being said, many people collect these halves. But anybody with a good number of Walkers may already have better examples in these dates.</p><p><br /></p><p>Dealers have these available at approximately 10x face value.&nbsp; As a lot of four, on ebay they might bring $15-20 or so.&nbsp; That might be optimistic.&nbsp; I have sold many Walkers and try to grade conservatively, so if I had to list them based on these photos (which I would not actually do), I&#039;d list them at VF-EF, Fine, F-VF and F. : )</p><p><br /></p><p>There is one nook of collectors that are always seeking to to improve their set of <u>identically worn Walkers</u>, but they would not be able to see what they&#039;d need to from these images. Area of cleavage is key, then the leg, hand, arms, head, and branches of laurel and oak. With grades lower than these, lettering and rims become more important.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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