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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;dougsmit, post: 2228275, member: 19463&quot;]Try as I might, I have been unable to duplicate images I made of coins several years ago.&nbsp; Some of the new ones come out better and some worse.&nbsp; The images record the camera and lens used as well as aperture but it would have required my recording the exact lighting used and I did not then (still don&#039;t for that matter).&nbsp; Lighting is very much a performance art and every little wiggle of a coin changes results just like it does with the violinist&#039;s bow that separates one performance of a middle school orchestra from another.&nbsp; Professionals are more consistent than I am. </p><p><br /></p><p>I do agree that macro primes are much better corrected than consumer grade zooms.&nbsp; I am just discovering the things that can be done in the inner levels of RAW software (I use DPP4 but there are many expensive ones that some people swear by.&nbsp; Are color aberrations postprocessed equal to those avoided with a better lens? I guarantee neither method makes as much difference as a solid, vibration free mount.&nbsp; I am certain that I am incapable of producing a pair of images that fairly isolates the contribution of one variable.&nbsp; I also know that I can produce images at least as good as I need for the coins I can afford.&nbsp; I am reshooting some of my favorite coins and see some improved but most just different.&nbsp; Coin photography is a side hobby I have found not much cheaper than collecting since I have been known to buy a coin to see if I am good enough to take a good photo of it.&nbsp; Canon has upgraded my best camera twice since I bought one.&nbsp; At least I have avoided chasing that rabbit down his hole.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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