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<p>[QUOTE="micheldura2, post: 830623, member: 18966"]I hope you don't mind Frank...but this helped me a lot! :hail:</p><p> </p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.com/members/treashunt/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/members/treashunt/"><font size="4">Treashunt</font></a> </p><p>The Other Frank</p><p> </p><p><a href="http://www.cointalk.com/members/treashunt/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/members/treashunt/"><img src="http://www.cointalk.com/customavatars/avatar6763_3.gif" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></a> </p><p> </p><p>Join Date: Oct 2006</p><p>Location: New York</p><p>Posts: 17,686 </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><b>Machine Doubling</b> </p><p>Just for Newbies, and who ever has more time on their hands then they know what to do with, I thought that a review of machine doubling (aka Strike doubling, and other names) would be in order.</p><p><br /></p><p>Machine/Strike doubling happens when the die (usually the upper or hammer die) is placed into the machine and is not tightened completely.</p><p>As a result of this loose fitting, the die is able to rotate, that is, move slightly each time that it strikes a coin. </p><p><br /></p><p>Because of this motion, the die moves or 'scrapes' along the (now) coin and slightly (ever so slightly) moves the die across the face of the coin.</p><p>The result is that the struck devices on the coin are 'moved' that is, they are shoved in one direction or another.</p><p><br /></p><p>The net result is that there appears to be another image of the (usually) lettering on the coin. </p><p><br /></p><p>This is not to be confused with a doubled die. In doubled die, the die has been 'impressed' with the design elements and then reheated, for the impression to be made again. (The purpose of this is to enhance, or improve the design on the die.)</p><p><br /></p><p>With a doubled die (please note: it is a doubleD die, NOT a double die. The die has been doubled.) The doubled design is the same height as that on the original, or first image.</p><p><br /></p><p>With Strike doubling, the secondary image is usually very slight, that is, it is very close to the original image. With a doubleD die, the secondary image may be close to the first, as with the 1995 Lincoln cent, where the primary doubling is on LIBERTY. Or more distance, as with the 1955 doubleD die cent's date. And, rarely, extreme separation, as with the 1969 doubleD die cent.</p><p><br /></p><p>True doubled dies are scarce, and usually of very low mintages. The one, popular, exception is the 1995 doubled die cent, which has an estimated mintage of from 600,000 to 1 million pieces. Despite the large mintage, it still sells for a fair premium in uncirculated, but is not worth a great deal in circulated condition.</p><p><br /></p><p>The machine/strike doubled coin is considered by most collectors to be damage to the coin and therefore, not worth as much as a coin without the strike doubling. Some collectors, purists, coinsider it damage and will only pay less for such a piece.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I have been criticized for saying that coins that have machine/strike doubling have "no added value". I have stated this not because it is just my opinion, but also that of the 'experts' in the field of error coins. they have taught me a great deal, and the first thing that I learned was: strike doubling has no added value.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you, the collector, decide that it had a value to you, then go for it, pay a premium if you like. That is the joy of coin collecting, we can each collect what we like. But, don't expect to mke a profit on the coin, unless you find a like minded individual.</p><p><br /></p><p>Other 'doubling' (if you are interested) may be die erosion, Longacre Doubling, or re-punching of the date or devices.</p><p><br /></p><p>If there is interest I will continue this discussion.</p><p><br /></p><p>Thank you.</p><p><img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Read more: <a href="http://www.cointalk.com/t58425/#ixzz0hY6iLqAx" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cointalk.com/t58425/#ixzz0hY6iLqAx">http://www.cointalk.com/t58425/#ixzz0hY6iLqAx</a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="micheldura2, post: 830623, member: 18966"]I hope you don't mind Frank...but this helped me a lot! :hail: [URL="http://www.cointalk.com/members/treashunt/"][SIZE=4]Treashunt[/SIZE][/URL] The Other Frank [URL="http://www.cointalk.com/members/treashunt/"][IMG]http://www.cointalk.com/customavatars/avatar6763_3.gif[/IMG][/URL] Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: New York Posts: 17,686 [B]Machine Doubling[/B] Just for Newbies, and who ever has more time on their hands then they know what to do with, I thought that a review of machine doubling (aka Strike doubling, and other names) would be in order. Machine/Strike doubling happens when the die (usually the upper or hammer die) is placed into the machine and is not tightened completely. As a result of this loose fitting, the die is able to rotate, that is, move slightly each time that it strikes a coin. Because of this motion, the die moves or 'scrapes' along the (now) coin and slightly (ever so slightly) moves the die across the face of the coin. The result is that the struck devices on the coin are 'moved' that is, they are shoved in one direction or another. The net result is that there appears to be another image of the (usually) lettering on the coin. This is not to be confused with a doubled die. In doubled die, the die has been 'impressed' with the design elements and then reheated, for the impression to be made again. (The purpose of this is to enhance, or improve the design on the die.) With a doubled die (please note: it is a doubleD die, NOT a double die. The die has been doubled.) The doubled design is the same height as that on the original, or first image. With Strike doubling, the secondary image is usually very slight, that is, it is very close to the original image. With a doubleD die, the secondary image may be close to the first, as with the 1995 Lincoln cent, where the primary doubling is on LIBERTY. Or more distance, as with the 1955 doubleD die cent's date. And, rarely, extreme separation, as with the 1969 doubleD die cent. True doubled dies are scarce, and usually of very low mintages. The one, popular, exception is the 1995 doubled die cent, which has an estimated mintage of from 600,000 to 1 million pieces. Despite the large mintage, it still sells for a fair premium in uncirculated, but is not worth a great deal in circulated condition. The machine/strike doubled coin is considered by most collectors to be damage to the coin and therefore, not worth as much as a coin without the strike doubling. Some collectors, purists, coinsider it damage and will only pay less for such a piece. I have been criticized for saying that coins that have machine/strike doubling have "no added value". I have stated this not because it is just my opinion, but also that of the 'experts' in the field of error coins. they have taught me a great deal, and the first thing that I learned was: strike doubling has no added value. If you, the collector, decide that it had a value to you, then go for it, pay a premium if you like. That is the joy of coin collecting, we can each collect what we like. But, don't expect to mke a profit on the coin, unless you find a like minded individual. Other 'doubling' (if you are interested) may be die erosion, Longacre Doubling, or re-punching of the date or devices. If there is interest I will continue this discussion. Thank you. ;) Read more: [URL]http://www.cointalk.com/t58425/#ixzz0hY6iLqAx[/URL][/QUOTE]
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