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<p>[QUOTE="CamaroDMD, post: 746203, member: 5233"]I don't think there is anything wrong with trying to get as much for something as possible. Most coin dealers have sole proprietor businesses and they deal with the customers directly...so you can often haggle. Also, there is that old saying "it's worth what someone is willing to pay."</p><p><br /></p><p>However, the truth is...no price guide is 100% accurate. I'll give you an example. Let's say we are talking about 1892-O Morgan Dollars graded MS63. The gray sheet will list the ask price for this coin...lets say that price is $275 (I don't have a gray sheet handy so this number could be way off). </p><p><br /></p><p>Now, imagine you see 3 1892-O Morgan's in a dealer's case. One is very poorly struck, one has a great strike and the other has a decent strike (not good but not poor) but has attractive rainbow toning. Clearly, these coins are not equal...yet they would all have the same value according to the gray sheet. You look at these 3 coins and they have the following prices (assuming $275 is the gray sheet ask price).</p><p><br /></p><p>Poor Strike: $270</p><p>Great Strike: $615</p><p>Toned: $450</p><p><br /></p><p>You might think those prices are crazy. How could a poorly struck coin be listed for the "ask" price. The toning makes sense (these coins often have large premiums)...but an excellent strike carrying that kind of premium! You might never return to that shop because the dealer appears to be a crook. However, you would be very wrong. The 1892-O is probably the worst struck coin in the Morgan series. Fully struck examples are very rare and carry huge premiums...none of this factor's into the gray sheet numbers. They account for the "average" coin of the grade...with this coin, that's a poorly struck example.</p><p><br /></p><p>So, my point is...price guides are useful up to a point, but each coin must be individually analyzed to determine it's actual value. Although the gray sheet is probably the best there is...it's not the "end all" of value. You must know the coin you are purchasing well to make sure the price you are paying is fair...you can't just rely on the gray sheet because it doesn't have all the information.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="CamaroDMD, post: 746203, member: 5233"]I don't think there is anything wrong with trying to get as much for something as possible. Most coin dealers have sole proprietor businesses and they deal with the customers directly...so you can often haggle. Also, there is that old saying "it's worth what someone is willing to pay." However, the truth is...no price guide is 100% accurate. I'll give you an example. Let's say we are talking about 1892-O Morgan Dollars graded MS63. The gray sheet will list the ask price for this coin...lets say that price is $275 (I don't have a gray sheet handy so this number could be way off). Now, imagine you see 3 1892-O Morgan's in a dealer's case. One is very poorly struck, one has a great strike and the other has a decent strike (not good but not poor) but has attractive rainbow toning. Clearly, these coins are not equal...yet they would all have the same value according to the gray sheet. You look at these 3 coins and they have the following prices (assuming $275 is the gray sheet ask price). Poor Strike: $270 Great Strike: $615 Toned: $450 You might think those prices are crazy. How could a poorly struck coin be listed for the "ask" price. The toning makes sense (these coins often have large premiums)...but an excellent strike carrying that kind of premium! You might never return to that shop because the dealer appears to be a crook. However, you would be very wrong. The 1892-O is probably the worst struck coin in the Morgan series. Fully struck examples are very rare and carry huge premiums...none of this factor's into the gray sheet numbers. They account for the "average" coin of the grade...with this coin, that's a poorly struck example. So, my point is...price guides are useful up to a point, but each coin must be individually analyzed to determine it's actual value. Although the gray sheet is probably the best there is...it's not the "end all" of value. You must know the coin you are purchasing well to make sure the price you are paying is fair...you can't just rely on the gray sheet because it doesn't have all the information.[/QUOTE]
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Why can people be cheap with selling their coins and vice versa?
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