Which coin grading company should I submit my coin to?

I have a question. I recently submitted a 1884-S Toned Morgan for grading to PCGS .. This coin is no less than MS-61 , possibly MS-62. They came back with some BS about it being cleaned. It never was // They say it has fibers on it... What can I do ?

 

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I have a question. I recently submitted a 1884-S Toned Morgan for grading to PCGS .. This coin is no less than MS-61 , possibly MS-62. They came back with some BS about it being cleaned. It never was // They say it has fibers on it... What can I do ?

 

I have a question. I recently submitted a 1884-S Toned Morgan for grading to PCGS .. This coin is no less than MS-61 , possibly MS-62. They came back with some BS about it being cleaned. It never was // They say it has fibers on it... What can I do ?

 

I would suggest taking a close look at the coin when you get it back to see if there is merit in their assessment. If you still feel they are really incorrect after that point (it happens not infrequently), your best bet is to crack it out and either resubmit it to PCGS, or submit it to another TPG like NGC.

I've found that about 3% of the coins I submit come back with details. Out of those, about half are ones where I either suspected that it might get details and I had tried it anyway, or there was something I had missed, and I don't resubmit the coin. The other half I crack out and resubmit, and thus far, out of those, all have graded on the second time through.

 

You know the complete day by day history of this coin since the day it was struck in 1884?

 

I've never heard of them grading something "with fibers". Jaelus gave you the best advice, if you disagree try again but before you do look closer

 

Here's one of many examples where they got it wrong the first time. It does happen.

On the first submission, this coin got a details grade for "surface hairlines". I got the coin back and I louped it really closely, and there wasn't a single hairline to be seen. What it was was a later die state iron coin where the flow lines on the reverse had an unusual look. To someone giving the coin a quick glance, it could misleadingly appear to be hairlined, but it is an original look for this type in late die states.



Knowing full well that they made a mistake, I cracked out the coin and sent it in with my next submission, and this time they got it right.



But like I said before, sometimes I get the coin back with a details grade and I look closely at it and realize there was a patch of hairlines (or something else) that I had missed before I submitted it, and they got it right where I had not.

 

So, everybody's happy. You got a correct grade on the coin, and PCGS got two grading fees.

 

thank you for the advice .. I will do just that

 

I had a few world coins they did that too as well. Woodie look coppers they hairlined for me each time first time through

 

PS off topic but lovely Hungarian coin you have Jaelus

 

Thanks, the WWI iron issues and WWII iron and especially zinc issues were very difficult to find in problem free MS grades for my type set.

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

 

I'm a sucker for world war dated world coins. You did great with that one

 

update ... Instead of resubmitting and having to go through all of that again, I sold the coin online for $350.00

 

can I ask for opinions on this coin ?

 

@J117 - The difference between 69 and 70 could be a speck, a tiny (nearly imperceptible) contact mark, a flack on a device. This looks like a high grade Eagle from the pictures, but it's nearly impossible to give you an exact grade from these pictures (or any pictures, really).

 

Meaning no offense, the images are far too small to form good grading opinions in the range most ASE's deserve. The one thing I can see clearly is milkspotting on the obverse, which would cost it at least a grade, perhaps two. I also have my doubts as to whether the toning would be considered market-acceptable, but that's open to debate.

 

Thank you.. I have not sent this in for grading, I wanted to get a few opinions first.. Do you think that MS70 would take that horrible toning off if I dipped carefully then rinsed in distilled water and allowed to air dry?

 

An answer to that is out of my competence. Although there are those who swear by MS70, I don't touch the stuff and have no experience to offer. Some have had success using thiourea to remove it, others not so much.

Keep in mind, the prevailing theory about the formation of this stuff is, incomplete rinsing during planchet preparation is then "baked on" to the planchet by the annealing step in the process. Something which has been "attached" to the coin in thousand-degree temperatures isn't going to be easy to remove....I suspect that repeating the annealing step as part of the removal process might be of benefit, but I don't know many collectors who are capable of reliably heating their coins into the 1k temperature range, much less then performing chemical reductions and/or cleaning processes upon them.

Another thing to keep in mind is most of these coins are intended by their manufacturer to be bullion. Lumps of silver purchased only for their precious metal value, and the quality of the coin's surfaces are irrelevant. It is we, the collecting public, who have artificially assigned greater value to them via the TPG system.

Of course, the milkspotting problem also plagues issues actually intended as "collectible," and shame upon the various Mints (Canadian issues have even greater milkspotting problems than US Mint ones) for not altering their techniques to compensate. I, for one, would trade a greater sensitivity to silver sulfide toning down the road for the removal of the milkspotting problem.

But as it is, ASE's are a crapshoot. The milk spots might appear early, they might take years, they might be removable but might not. You pays your money and takes your chances.

 

MS 70 would likely get some of the haze off, but doubt it'd do anything to the toning. It's not a dip either you need to do more then just dunk it in and wash it off.