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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 933466, member: 19463"]No. Lenses focus more closely when they are placed slightly forward from the normal position. Some models do this internally so you never see it while some get longer as you focus. If you want to focus more closely that the lens allows, you simply remove the lens and place an extension tube on the body and then replace the lens. Then instead of allowing focus fom, for example, 5 feet to infinity, the lens will then focus from 1 foot to 5 feet. If you want even closer you add a bigger tube until you are focusing on the front glass of the lens which is totally useless. Because various lenses require different amounts of extension to achieve what you want, they are often sold in sets of three to make it easy to pick what you need for each job. Zoom lenses and tubes make an easy way of shooting coin sized objects but the image quality may be a little less than a genuine dedicated macro lens although the difference probably won't show until you are making huge enlargements. I have 12x18" prints from my Canon zoom on tubes that are fine to my standards. </p><p> </p><p>You will certainly need a way to mount the camera securely for coin photos. You can not hand hold accurately at that range despite what some people claim. Using a $2000 camera handheld can give worse results than a $100 camera on secure support. </p><p> </p><p>I have several pages on coin photography but my coins are different from yours and I am no expert on lighting modern coins!</p><p><a href="http://dougsmith.ancients.info/ph2008.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://dougsmith.ancients.info/ph2008.html" rel="nofollow">http://dougsmith.ancients.info/ph2008.html</a></p><p> </p><p>The above page shows my rig after I bought the 'real' macro lens but the one below shows my old digital Canon and the zoom on tubes along with sample images. </p><p><a href="http://dougsmith.ancients.info/ph2004.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://dougsmith.ancients.info/ph2004.html" rel="nofollow">http://dougsmith.ancients.info/ph2004.html</a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 933466, member: 19463"]No. Lenses focus more closely when they are placed slightly forward from the normal position. Some models do this internally so you never see it while some get longer as you focus. If you want to focus more closely that the lens allows, you simply remove the lens and place an extension tube on the body and then replace the lens. Then instead of allowing focus fom, for example, 5 feet to infinity, the lens will then focus from 1 foot to 5 feet. If you want even closer you add a bigger tube until you are focusing on the front glass of the lens which is totally useless. Because various lenses require different amounts of extension to achieve what you want, they are often sold in sets of three to make it easy to pick what you need for each job. Zoom lenses and tubes make an easy way of shooting coin sized objects but the image quality may be a little less than a genuine dedicated macro lens although the difference probably won't show until you are making huge enlargements. I have 12x18" prints from my Canon zoom on tubes that are fine to my standards. You will certainly need a way to mount the camera securely for coin photos. You can not hand hold accurately at that range despite what some people claim. Using a $2000 camera handheld can give worse results than a $100 camera on secure support. I have several pages on coin photography but my coins are different from yours and I am no expert on lighting modern coins! [URL]http://dougsmith.ancients.info/ph2008.html[/URL] The above page shows my rig after I bought the 'real' macro lens but the one below shows my old digital Canon and the zoom on tubes along with sample images. [URL]http://dougsmith.ancients.info/ph2004.html[/URL][/QUOTE]
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