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When you lose an auction lot by one notch … grrrr.
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<p>[QUOTE="KBBPLL, post: 25666813, member: 104064"]I have definitely overpaid too. For example, a couple years ago I paid nearly VF20 price for an F12 1903-S dime. It was from the John McCloskey collection, and I'm pretty sure it's the same 1903-S he mentioned in a 1980 Coin World article that first described the thin and thick ribbon reverse types. Because his work led me down a long path of collecting all the Barber dime transition anomalies, I just had to have it. I have no idea why another bidder also wanted it so badly. </p><p><br /></p><p>I have occasionally ignored BP when upping my set bid during a live auction for a coin I'd waited a long time to find. On a $200-300 coin an extra $40-60 doesn't bother me since I buy so few coins and it's entertainment money. So yeah, I'm that bidder you hate to run into.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="KBBPLL, post: 25666813, member: 104064"]I have definitely overpaid too. For example, a couple years ago I paid nearly VF20 price for an F12 1903-S dime. It was from the John McCloskey collection, and I'm pretty sure it's the same 1903-S he mentioned in a 1980 Coin World article that first described the thin and thick ribbon reverse types. Because his work led me down a long path of collecting all the Barber dime transition anomalies, I just had to have it. I have no idea why another bidder also wanted it so badly. I have occasionally ignored BP when upping my set bid during a live auction for a coin I'd waited a long time to find. On a $200-300 coin an extra $40-60 doesn't bother me since I buy so few coins and it's entertainment money. So yeah, I'm that bidder you hate to run into.[/QUOTE]
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When you lose an auction lot by one notch … grrrr.
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