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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Kevin Mader, post: 25252265, member: 106826&quot;]My advice here is that for any key coin of interest that you have, you learn the markers for those coins so that you can ascertain if what you have in front of you is real or fake.&nbsp; Some fakes are pretty good, so going three or four markers deep might be necessary.</p><p><br /></p><p>1909 S VDB - finding the proper placement for the 4 mint mark positions and the spacing of the dots on V.D.B.</p><p><br /></p><p>1955 DDO - finding the light projecting grove on the left bar on the T in CENT.&nbsp; If you look at the specimen above, you&#039;ll see it&#039;s missing.&nbsp; Also, while a specimen might look correct without magnification, light magnification under a lighted loop lamp brings it to bear.&nbsp; Also, the unnatural toning on this specimen should throw up caution flags.&nbsp; By examining the actual doubling, you should be able to make out primary/secondary impressions.&nbsp; On the specimen I posted, there are not typical witness marks to consider; they are in the same plain. And, if you look closely at the surface, you&#039;ll find that a coin may not be coined but rather...cast.&nbsp; This is a cast specimen, so you can find porosity in the field and in the details.&nbsp; A non-normal condition for a coined object, unless corrosion has set in.&nbsp; This specimen is corrosion free.</p><p><br /></p><p>Unfortunately for the shop owner, he was taken by a catchy story and failing eyesight.&nbsp; He also recalled his good fortune catching that 3-legged Buffalo and thought it was happening again.&nbsp; He set it aside and when I came in, went to the safe to have me give it a look.&nbsp; He was aware that he could have been taken advantage of.&nbsp; He paid about $250 for that coin, which had it been real, would have been 10X the investment.&nbsp; But it was too good to be true.&nbsp; He was disappointed, but not upset (his wife was the one upset as she told him not to buy it).[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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