What would you pay?

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by Pennycase, Jul 22, 2004.

  1. Pennycase

    Pennycase New Member

    Feel free to add a "what would you pay" comment on here, including something that you might have, that isn't exactly something that is a pinpoint price that is always payed, something that usually either brings really really low prices for what is listed in a value guide, or something that usually brings really really high prices that are far above what the value lists, a good example would be the 1963 proof cent that was sold for 39 thousand, or somewhere around that area...
    I will go ahead and post my coin, which most of you have already heard a bit about, from my e-bay adventures....What would you pay for a 1972 DDO Cent graded by ANACS MS-64??? Please post some other coins as well for comment on, let's get a good thread goin on, it doesn't even neccesarily have to be something you have, or something you actually can afford. Would like for some to post some things that are undervalued, and stuff like that you know.... Some coins that maybe you have found that are virtually almost impossible to come by, that have a value on it, as if it were a commen dated/mintmark coin
     
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  3. joecoin

    joecoin New Member

    I would pay, for a 1972 DDO Lincoln in MS64, around $200. That's because I do not collect Lincolns anymore, and I would turn around and sell it so I could buy a Large Cent!


    An 1878-CC dime has a mintage lower than a 1916-D Mercury, but is priced at many multiples less. Could that be a bargain? Only if as many people start collecting seated dimes as collect Mercuries.
     
  4. National dealer

    National dealer New Member

    The Proof Lincoln that you mention is an exception to the rule. First it was the only Proof 70. That makes it special to begin with. That particular coin was only bid on by the registry set crowd. While the 72 doubled die is a nice collectable coin, it will never compete in value with the the top of the tier coins. As one who has bought and sold the top coins, there is no guide by which to go by. People will pay whatever it takes to own the example.
    Don't let yourself get caught up in price guides. They are only there to set the bench mark. Each and every coin should be valued on what you are willing to pay for it.
     
  5. Pennycase

    Pennycase New Member

    Yeah, I understand it being the only proof-70, but, how many 1963 proof lincolns out there haven't been graded, because people feel that having it sent off is a hassle, or they don't trust sending it off. I figure that as these proof coins that have only one or two known that are proof-70, if kept in absolute perfect condition, the way they were bought, eventually, they will pass through someones hands that has to have every single proof coin graded that they have, and possibly, soon, there will be a second, then a third, and so on. One thing to look at about that, is that someone sees the price of the lincoln that was sold, then, everyone in turn begins to send theirs off, surely there is at least one more out there that grades this high. It's like when a new variety or error is found, once word of this coin has spread that has something special about it, every collector and their brother will be looking for another example. I probably don't have to explain this to you especially, National, just wanting to see if I know what i'm talking about :D .
     
  6. National dealer

    National dealer New Member

    Well your thought is along the right lines, but finding a 70 in any early 60's proof set is an undertaking in and of itself. As one who routinely submits thousands of coins a year for grading, I can tell you first hand how hard it is to get the ultra grades. Anytime a coin hits the mainstream media for price, yes coins come out of the woodwork, but just because multiples arrive at market doesn't always lower the value. Now I won't say that I agree with the price tag of some of these.
     
  7. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    I shouldn't get started on this '63 PF70 DCAM cent thing - but I will anyway. In the first place - the coin never deserved the grade it received. It was a mistake. And it was a mistake that PCGS paid dearly for when the owner put the coin up for auction. Then of course PCGS made some lame excuse about the coin turning in the holder and they bought it back to downgrade it. Yeah right !! :mad: See I told ya I shouldn't get started.

    Anyway - back to the subject at hand. joecoin made a good point - there are many coins out there that are more rare, have lower mintages and yet are real bargains price wise. I've talked about this many times. But what it all boils down to is what YOU like to collect.

    If you choose to collect coins that everybody else wants - get ready to pay up cause they're gonna cost ya. Supply and demand is the rule. But find yourself a niche - something that not everybody else wants and yet it still rings your bell - now you've done something ;) This is why I after 40 some years I gave up on collecting US coinage and switched to world coinage only. And I've never been happier :D But that's me - it may not work for you.

    But to provide you with a few examples - I own a particular gold pattern coin struck in France in 1978 - it has a total mintage of 132 pieces. That coin cost me less than $200. Go find a US coin like that :eek:

    I have another gold coin - about the same size as a US quarter eagle. This coin was struck in 1849 and is graded as MS64 PL. It had a mintage of 18,000. Go check the prices of US gold coins from that time period and in a comparable grade and see what they cost. Know what you'll find - they run from about $8,000 and up. Know what I paid for my coin - about $300.

    And if you really want the ultimate example - go take a look at my recent post in the World Coin Forum. That coin is the find of a lifetime - the finest example in existance. It was centuries old before the US was even thought of. But if you could find a US coin that was comparable in rarity and grade - it would cost in the hundreds of thousands. Well I promise you - I couldn't afford such things. I could barely afford this and it was less than a fraction of what the US coin would cost.

    Get the idea yet ? :D
     
  8. jody526

    jody526 New Member

    I do indeed.
    Your points are well taken and I agree 100%.

    Now just let me add my opinion on what US coins (my main interest) are good buys. Patterns, Colonials, early low mintage Type coins, early Proofs, and most obsolete coinage.

    What seems to be a grossly over-priced category are modern, certified condition rarities.

    Of course, it has been stated, and I agree, that you should collect what you like, and pay what it's worth to you. If that means a PCGS PR-69 Silver Eagle is your "thang", then by all means, more power to you.
     
  9. Ed Zak

    Ed Zak New Member

    I collect the 1972 DDO's and making sure that they are what they are is important for double dies and error coins. That is because I have seen variations that are less in value.

    Anacs is good at grading the varieties and for the #1 (the best variety) with distinctive doubling on "In God We Trust", "Liberty" and the date, I would pay up to $400 to $425 for this coin if I needed and wanted it for my collection. Fortunately for me, I have a couple that I bought in years past.

    These 1972 DDO's are going up! This past FUN Show in Orlando, these coins were selling in PCGS graded MS65 RD condition around $450-$475 and you would be hard pressed to find this grade selling for less than $550 - $600 NOW.

    Not since 1955 has the doubling been as distinctive as the 1972. The 1995 has doubling, been no where as distinctive as the 1972 and the Lincoln grand daddy of 1955!

    *********

    As for coins with very low mintage numbers and relatively low market prices...

    It is all market related! For instance, Lincoln pennies are highly demanded because for the most part, that is where most of us began. Take a 1915S penny versus a 1915S dime. 4,833,000 Lincolns were minted compared to only 960,000 1915S Barber Dimes. So the prices you would think would be almost 5 times more for the 1915S dime over the 1915S penny? Well, according to the 2005 Red Book, an EF40 dime is $60 compared to an EF40 Lincoln at $40. Surely not 5 times more, but because more Lincolns and Dollars are collected versus dimes, the market forces are in place.

    Take your French coin that was previously posted. I could care less about the French and their coins. I also think it is great that Lance Armstrong is going to win his 6th straight Tour de France (a record) in their back yard. The question is...who wants to collect them? Sure there a few collectors, but if you poll your average collector if he as any interest in French, German or Saudi Arabian coins, I would bet my collection that they would not.

    You always hear about Roman coins minted around the time of Christ and their prices are not near what Morgans or Lincolns get! Again, it depends on who wants them!

    For me, I like Lincolns and Dollars. Dimes and Quarters are nice, but not for me. Manybe it is that "1" stigma...either .01 or 1.00. Either way, market forces, age, mintage numbers, survival rates, are all relative.
     
  10. tradernick

    tradernick Coin Hoarder

    I currently own a 72 ddo ngc ms63 bn that I paid bid for...$350. It's a very sharp coin that I'm proud to have in my case. Like key dates, these are hot items and they are always in demand, so it's a coin that I'm not afraid to pay strong for.
     
  11. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    One additional comment - for those who wish to collect coins with a strong potential for an increase in value or with investment in mind - don't buy what is going up today or has been going up over the past few years. Buy what what will be going up tomorrow ;)
     
  12. Speedy

    Speedy Researching Coins Supporter

    Amen GDJMSP--if only we knew...maybe you can let us in on how you know???
    :D ;)

    Alright y'all:

    How much would you pay for a 1931-s cent--I was given one yesterday and I can't grade too good but I'll try---In Coin Values the grading guide for Lincoln cents says its a F-12.

    Speedy
     
  13. Ed Zak

    Ed Zak New Member

    Not too often do you find a 1931-S in "just" F12 condition. The word got out quickly back then that less than a million (866,000) were minted so they got hoarded pretty quickly. Consequently, most finds are VF condition or better.

    In any case, September 2004's issue of Coin Prices have an F12 1931-S at $72.50. 2005 Red Book has this coin at $60.00. Ecoins and Trends has a Fine grade priced at $50.

    I imagine the going market for a F12 1931-S Lincoln is going to be somewhere in that range.

    [​IMG]

    F.Y.I., F12 means that parts of the wheat lines are worn, but still are visible. The cheek and beard are worn nearly level with the face.

    If you see slight hair and details in the coat (obverse), it may grade at F15.

    Here is the best link I have seen on line for grading Lincoln coins:

    http://www.saharacoins.com/grading/lincolncents.htm

    Good luck!
     
  14. Speedy

    Speedy Researching Coins Supporter

    Thanks Ed Zak!

    As I said--I can't grade and I haven't gotten to the "big city" to the bookstore to get a grading book. :rolleyes: :D

    Thanks for your help....

    BTW
    It looks like your photo---this coin came out of a Whitman holder.


    Speedy
     
  15. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator


    Geeeez Speedy - you expect me to teach ya ALL my secrets in such a short time :rolleyes:

    You've come quite a ways in the past year or so as it is. Why I can remember when ........ nahhhhh I aint gonna go there :D :D

    In time pal - in time ;)
     
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