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<p>[QUOTE="iPen, post: 2303843, member: 69760"]Most of my coins are in black ring air-tites or slabs.</p><p><br /></p><p>I use a rare earth magnet as one way to tell, since the (typically) copper balance is paramagnetic. It will draw a slight attraction, noticeable when using an N52 magnet. It's the fastest way to tell one aspect of the silver coin's authenticity - silver plating over ferrous or paramagnetic metals/alloys. </p><p><br /></p><p>I also weigh the coins. If it passes those first two tests, I search for high quality images of a known authentic coin and compare the two. Any suspicious areas I use a 30x-300x microscope to see what's going on. I also ask here on the forums to test my assumptions and findings, as well as to research details on the 'net. </p><p><br /></p><p>Sending it off to the TPGs would be the very last step, and I've never had to do that (!), but I will for these 2 coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>I'm in Chicagoland.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="iPen, post: 2303843, member: 69760"]Most of my coins are in black ring air-tites or slabs. I use a rare earth magnet as one way to tell, since the (typically) copper balance is paramagnetic. It will draw a slight attraction, noticeable when using an N52 magnet. It's the fastest way to tell one aspect of the silver coin's authenticity - silver plating over ferrous or paramagnetic metals/alloys. I also weigh the coins. If it passes those first two tests, I search for high quality images of a known authentic coin and compare the two. Any suspicious areas I use a 30x-300x microscope to see what's going on. I also ask here on the forums to test my assumptions and findings, as well as to research details on the 'net. Sending it off to the TPGs would be the very last step, and I've never had to do that (!), but I will for these 2 coins. I'm in Chicagoland.[/QUOTE]
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What would you grade these as?
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