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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Prime Mover, post: 1616562, member: 38783&quot;]If anything, for the modern proof/mint sets, sell your raw coins and then re-buy graded ones.&nbsp; It sounds counter-productive, but unless you have all 70&#039;s and you KNOW you have 70&#039;s, it will be cheaper than trying to go get them slabbed.&nbsp; And, if you read a lot of the posts here you&#039;ll get the idea that the 70&#039;s are not easy to spot and there&#039;s plenty of examples of folks getting 70 grades on coins they were sure were 69&#039;s and vice versa.&nbsp; For me in most cases I can&#039;t tell the difference between PR69 and PR70 with the naked eye, so I don&#039;t strive for the &quot;perfect&quot; 70, and keep my costs down.</p><p><br /></p><p>I prefer slabs or at the very least plastic holders myself.&nbsp; If you are patient, you can find good grades cheaper on eBay.&nbsp; For example I&#039;ve put together almost 6 sets of silver state quarters in PR-69 grades from both PCGS and NGC for about an average cost of under $10 per coin.&nbsp; I&#039;ve been able to assemble almost a complete set of MS-65 and MS-66 Pres dollars, mostly PCGS for around $6 a coin, and PR-69 sets for about $8 a coin.&nbsp; There&#039;s no way you&#039;ll come under that cost even with the freebies you get every year, and with a 50-60 coin set you&#039;re talking a savings of hundreds if not thousands of dollars in grading costs over time.</p><p><br /></p><p>Where you can at least have a chance to break even is for the older coins like the Kennedy and Franklin halves, Ike dollars, etc, where the value of a well graded coin may well exceed your cost to grade/slab, but you need to get a feel for what&#039;s worth the shot and what&#039;s not.&nbsp; Again, in certain cases you&#039;re probably better off just trying to land a slab for anything worth under $25.&nbsp; Then again the anticipation and waiting for the results does make for a cool feeling, and to some that alone is worth the money.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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