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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;cpm9ball, post: 1470044, member: 24633&quot;]Hi, Meg!</p><p><br /></p><p>Everyone pretty much covered what I would have said. No, you really don&#039;t need to buy a Red Book if you have no interest in collecting. The price guides in the book are overly optimistic retail values. I wouldn&#039;t suggest that you sell the coins to a &quot;We Buy Gold&quot; shop, either. You would probably get a better price from a reputable dealer.</p><p><br /></p><p>I don&#039;t know if you would be able to find any reference that covers ALL of the terminology used in numismatics: </p><p><br /></p><p>The term &quot;Walker&quot; refers to the Walking Liberty half dollar which was struck from 1916-1947. Many of the coin designs are given shortened names by collectors, and these are not often referenced in any guide. &quot;Rosie&quot; would be the Roosevelt dime, 1946-to date; SLQ refers to the Standing Liberty quarter dollar, 1916-1930; Merc is the Winged Liberty dime, 1916-1945, and the Morgan dollar, 1878-1904 + 1921, is properly known as the Liberty Head Dollar, but it was designed by Mint Engraver, George T. Morgan.</p><p><br /></p><p>The term &quot;Mint State&quot; is commonly abbreviated &quot;MS&quot; and it denotes the condition of a coin on the Sheldon Grading Scale. Coins can be graded Poor (PO), About Good (AG), Good (G), Very Good (VG), Fine (F), Very Fine (VF), Extremely Fine (EF or XF), About Uncirculated (AU) and Mint State (MS) means that the coin is in an uncirculated condition.</p><p><br /></p><p>Toned coins have developed a very strong following over the last 20-30 years, and oftentimes they can sell for multiples of any catalog value for the same untoned coin. These coins, often called &quot;toners&quot;, can take on a vast array of color schemes from rainbows to pastels depending on the method of storage that was used. The Morgan in my avatar is just one example of a toner.</p><p><br /></p><p>Chris[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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