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<p>[QUOTE="kaparthy, post: 13682, member: 57463"]Some dealers take credit cards, but very few. Credit card processing companies charge fees that eat into profits. Also, you need verfication and that requires lines for computer-like terminals, which are an expense at a coin show. (The show pays the (union) electricians to wire a table with connectivity -- and the show charges the dealer back.) Also, credit card fraud is often harder to prosecute than check fraud.</p><p><br /></p><p>As for checks, dealers tend to prefer cash, of course. A check is better than no sale, but some dealers prefer to avoid the risk entirely. If you are known to the dealer as a good customer, at least by reputation among dealers, that helps.</p><p><br /></p><p>Basically, cash is king.</p><p><br /></p><p>Some people bring CDN (Coin Dealer Newsletter; "The Greysheet") or similar price guides. Some collectors are terrified of paying too much for something and insist on bargaining at the dealer's price level. The other side of the coin is that dealers spot "fish" by the Greysheets they carry, thinking that it makes them look like the insiders that they are not.</p><p><br /></p><p>(Also, my own interests tend to be away from mainstream US collector coins, so the price guides do not help. And when the time comes for me to buy something like a Cameo Proof or Large Cent or Iron Mine Scrip, I just pay pretty much whatever the dealer asks, though I might counter-offer with a round down: "$17.50? Can you do it for $15?" And, really, I am pretty much in the Zen Blank Mind of the Full Moon on Still Waters mode. I just go there to look, and see, and buy what I did not expect. If I go to hunt for This or That, I feel that I have missed something that I closed my mind to.)</p><p><br /></p><p>I personally enjoy a convention as a practical examination in numismatics. When you hit the bourse floor, you either know your stuff, or you don't. If you haven't done your homework all term, crib sheets won't help with the final. </p><p><br /></p><p>I do bring a magnifier and my reading classes.</p><p><br /></p><p>Dress comfortably. Use your _DEEP_ pockets. Avoid carrying any kind of briefcase or purse if at all possible. (Sometimes, I am on contracts that require some office gear and after 90 days or so on the job, I am pretty comfortable in a suit with a briefcase, so I dress that way for a convention. If I am not working, I go to the show casual.) Take your time. Arrive early; stay late. Come two days or more if you can. Spend the first hour just walking the floor, looking, and smiling and nodding. There are very few items that are so rare that two people are not selling them -- and you will not see them at all if you run through the show against your clock.</p><p><br /></p><p>Also, a pointer: The seller quotes the first price. If you want to buy something, you ask, "How much?" of course. Conversely, if you have something to sell, you must have a figure in mind and say it out loud. </p><p><br /></p><p>Michael</p><p>"Show dog"[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="kaparthy, post: 13682, member: 57463"]Some dealers take credit cards, but very few. Credit card processing companies charge fees that eat into profits. Also, you need verfication and that requires lines for computer-like terminals, which are an expense at a coin show. (The show pays the (union) electricians to wire a table with connectivity -- and the show charges the dealer back.) Also, credit card fraud is often harder to prosecute than check fraud. As for checks, dealers tend to prefer cash, of course. A check is better than no sale, but some dealers prefer to avoid the risk entirely. If you are known to the dealer as a good customer, at least by reputation among dealers, that helps. Basically, cash is king. Some people bring CDN (Coin Dealer Newsletter; "The Greysheet") or similar price guides. Some collectors are terrified of paying too much for something and insist on bargaining at the dealer's price level. The other side of the coin is that dealers spot "fish" by the Greysheets they carry, thinking that it makes them look like the insiders that they are not. (Also, my own interests tend to be away from mainstream US collector coins, so the price guides do not help. And when the time comes for me to buy something like a Cameo Proof or Large Cent or Iron Mine Scrip, I just pay pretty much whatever the dealer asks, though I might counter-offer with a round down: "$17.50? Can you do it for $15?" And, really, I am pretty much in the Zen Blank Mind of the Full Moon on Still Waters mode. I just go there to look, and see, and buy what I did not expect. If I go to hunt for This or That, I feel that I have missed something that I closed my mind to.) I personally enjoy a convention as a practical examination in numismatics. When you hit the bourse floor, you either know your stuff, or you don't. If you haven't done your homework all term, crib sheets won't help with the final. I do bring a magnifier and my reading classes. Dress comfortably. Use your _DEEP_ pockets. Avoid carrying any kind of briefcase or purse if at all possible. (Sometimes, I am on contracts that require some office gear and after 90 days or so on the job, I am pretty comfortable in a suit with a briefcase, so I dress that way for a convention. If I am not working, I go to the show casual.) Take your time. Arrive early; stay late. Come two days or more if you can. Spend the first hour just walking the floor, looking, and smiling and nodding. There are very few items that are so rare that two people are not selling them -- and you will not see them at all if you run through the show against your clock. Also, a pointer: The seller quotes the first price. If you want to buy something, you ask, "How much?" of course. Conversely, if you have something to sell, you must have a figure in mind and say it out loud. Michael "Show dog"[/QUOTE]
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