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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;satootoko, post: 60697, member: 669&quot;]This is exactly the correct forum for a philosophical discussion of numismatics.How sad. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie3" alt=":(" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> In no particular order: age, condition, rarity, subject matter, and metallic content are the most important factors IMHO.That&#039;s a mouthful of questions young lady!</p><p><br /></p><p>The principles of coin valuation are an example of the operation of the law of supply and demand.&nbsp; The more collectors are interested in a particular area, the more coins in that area will be worth.&nbsp; The fewer coins exist in a particular grade/condition, the more they will be worth.&nbsp; The higher the condition of a particular coin, the more it will be worth.&nbsp; And so on, <i>but</i> there is a complex interplay between and among those factors.&nbsp; A rare example of a coin that few people collect isn&#039;t going to be worth as much as a fairly common example of a coin with a huge collector base.&nbsp; The intrinsic metallic bullion value of a heavy silver piece will make it worth more than a copper coin of the same weight and generally comparable collectibility.&nbsp; Confusing?&nbsp; Of course!&nbsp; That&#039;s why we say &quot;buy the book before the coin&quot; as knowledge is the key. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie6" alt=":cool:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>Ultimately, the direct method of valuing coins which you are not familiar with, is to look them up in a catalog.&nbsp; The <i>Standard Catalog of World Coins</i> by Krause &amp; Mishler, usually referred to simply as &quot;Krause&quot;, is a set of four large city telephone book-sized volumes covering the pariod from 1601-present.&nbsp; It&#039;s usually available in your nearest public library, and if they don&#039;t have at least the 20-21st Century volume, they can probably get it for you on inter-library loan.&nbsp; Like all catalogs, it&#039;s valuations are wildly inaccurate on many issues, but if you are able to at least roughly grade your coins as to condition, Krause will tell you which ones are of nominal value, and which ones are potentially of substantial value.</p><p><br /></p><p>The &quot;rusted&quot; and &quot;verdigis infested&quot; ones are generally numismatically worthless unless they are extremely rare in any condition.</p><p><br /></p><p>Once you have picked out the ones with a good value potential, you can post pictures here for some opinions; consult a dealer for either a paid-for appraisal or a free offer to buy; or consult more specialized catalogs, such as Spinks for British coins, or the Japan Numismatic Dealers Association Catalog (in Japanese) for Japanese coins.&nbsp; You can also check completed auctions (probably the most accurate way to determine value <i>if</i> you are able to accurately grade your coins) to compare with the ones sold at auction.</p><p><br /></p><p>Unfortunately, your ancestor picked just about the absolute worst way to preserve and protect her coins!&nbsp; Tissue paper is usually pretty acidic, and wooden boxes can outgas some baaaaaad stuff, especially if the box was kept in an area with high humidity. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie4" alt=":mad:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>At least, any gold or silver coins that may be in the mix will be worth at least their bullion value.&nbsp; Krause gives the specs on listed gold/silver coins, including their ASW/AGW (Actual Silver/Gold Weight).&nbsp; For example, pre-1992 Mexican Pesos contain approximately the same amount of pure silver as U.S. Silver Dollars, so they are worth more than $5 in any condition. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie2" alt=";)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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