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<p>[QUOTE="cladking, post: 22102, member: 68"]While this may be a very basic question there eally is no simple answer. Generally higher grades will appreciate more rapidly than lower grades but that doesn't necessarily make them a better value. In some cases there is a huge spread between one grade and the next higher. There's usually a good reason for this spread but it can be caused by temporary influences. </p><p><br /></p><p>The best bet is to choose the grade you want to collect something before you even start it. This should be based largely on what you can afford but also on what you can appreciate and on the relative costs. For instance a very high grade Ike set in BU might run $100,000 and require years to assemble because of the scarcity of these coins in the highest grades. But very nice sets which are nearly as scarce can be assembled for far, far less. Even more can be saved if you find the coins raw though the amount of work increases exponentially. </p><p><br /></p><p>Some series tend not to appeal to most collectors in certain grades. This list would include MS-60 moderns and buffalos below good. There's no reason not to collect these if they appeal to you but you should know beforehand that the coins will be hard to sell in the future. Other series make a great collectible in a grade but tend to be a great deal of work or will just take overly long to complete. Most Barber coins are very difficult to locate in nice circulated grades. The challenge of completing the collection will be amplified even further if you attempt to get nice matched coins. While collecting against the "hobby grain" might pay off in the long run when the hobby catches up with you, in the mean time you'll have a lot of "work" and "effort" and there's every chance that prices will grossly escalate while you're still working on the set. </p><p><br /></p><p>Proof coins are not the same as mint state coins and most collectors differentiate between them. Many of the modern proofs are usually very high grade and it takes experience to tell the various grades apart and to appreciate them. </p><p><br /></p><p>The hobby is about having fun so collect the grade that you think is the most fun. If you change your mind you can always just start over.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="cladking, post: 22102, member: 68"]While this may be a very basic question there eally is no simple answer. Generally higher grades will appreciate more rapidly than lower grades but that doesn't necessarily make them a better value. In some cases there is a huge spread between one grade and the next higher. There's usually a good reason for this spread but it can be caused by temporary influences. The best bet is to choose the grade you want to collect something before you even start it. This should be based largely on what you can afford but also on what you can appreciate and on the relative costs. For instance a very high grade Ike set in BU might run $100,000 and require years to assemble because of the scarcity of these coins in the highest grades. But very nice sets which are nearly as scarce can be assembled for far, far less. Even more can be saved if you find the coins raw though the amount of work increases exponentially. Some series tend not to appeal to most collectors in certain grades. This list would include MS-60 moderns and buffalos below good. There's no reason not to collect these if they appeal to you but you should know beforehand that the coins will be hard to sell in the future. Other series make a great collectible in a grade but tend to be a great deal of work or will just take overly long to complete. Most Barber coins are very difficult to locate in nice circulated grades. The challenge of completing the collection will be amplified even further if you attempt to get nice matched coins. While collecting against the "hobby grain" might pay off in the long run when the hobby catches up with you, in the mean time you'll have a lot of "work" and "effort" and there's every chance that prices will grossly escalate while you're still working on the set. Proof coins are not the same as mint state coins and most collectors differentiate between them. Many of the modern proofs are usually very high grade and it takes experience to tell the various grades apart and to appreciate them. The hobby is about having fun so collect the grade that you think is the most fun. If you change your mind you can always just start over.[/QUOTE]
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