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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;dougsmit, post: 778700, member: 19463&quot;]Whatever type light you use, the camera must be set to receive that balance. Some cheaper cameras have little or no control in this area so they only work well in natural light but if you have a better camera that allows setting a manual white balance or (better still) shooting RAW files you will find the compact fluorescent bulbs work quite well. We are back to the earlier statement that it is not the equipment as much as how you use it.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>From your posts, I see you do not believe what more than one person said about it being how you use the camera more than which camera you own so you may be disappointed with any new camera that does not perform miracles with no user input. The camera, Nikon or Canon (or several other DSLR makers) is a tool with a lot of controls that will allow it to do what you tell it to do - no more. For coins, I&#039;d suggest buying a set of fully automatic (Kenko) extension tubes so you can fill the frame with smaller coins and always shoot at the longer end of the focal range of the zoom (55mm is standard but if you got a longer lens it would be easier since you will be farther from the coin when shooting. You also need a sturdy tripod or copy stand since hand held coin photos are usually second rate at best. Most of us use artificial light but it is quite possible to shoot using diffused daylight coming in a window so you can decide what light fits your personality best. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>This shows three light set ups and an older model Canon DSLR with a 100mm macro lens:</p><p><img src="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/image/96310336.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>All three use my 1960&#039;s vintage Durst enlarger frame reworked into a copy stand. Obviously you can support the camera many ways using home made or commercial equipment including any standard tripod that can be set to shoot down. What differs is the lighting. </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Left: Fluorescent ringlight - coin supported on dowel over black background in refrigerator drawer which reflects some light onto edges of coin. Smaller dowel in foreground is used for tiny coins. This light has a &#039;strange&#039; color balance so you will have to use the manual setting (see instruction book that comes with the camera) or shoot RAW. This is the top coin in each sample.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Center: Compact fluorescents can be slid (near, far, left, right)and tilted as needed for best results. Two in a small movie bar are shown but one can be used. Aluminum foil shown in drawer can be used if additional edge light is desired. Diffusers or reflectors may be added to lights as desired but two bare tubes usually provide a broad light source as desired. You can buy slightly more expensive bulbs which offer a daylight color balance or set the camera manually to match the cheap ones. This is the middle coin in each sample.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Right: Camera is set up near a bright but not directly sunny window for natural light. The can around the dowel coin support shadows the black background making it blacker. A wired remote release helps cut down on camera shake and wireless remotes are even better if you have one. The copy stand is mounted on lazy-susan allowing rotation in the light to change angle as desired. This is important since this light is rather strongly directional and a big difference can be seen as you rotate. It is easier to rotate the whole thing and see what you will get than it is to move the window and sun to suit. This is the bottom coin in each sample.</p><p>&nbsp; </p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Below are two sets of three shots of coins shot in each of the three rigs shown above. One is as dark as any bronze you may find; the other is lighter</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p><img src="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/image/96381181.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /><img src="http://www.pbase.com/dougsmit/image/96234805.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Note that I do not show a flash set up. The problem with flash is that you can not see what you will get until after you shoot and a lot of coin photography is placing the glares where they do the most good or least bad. This is not exactly the same for every coin.&nbsp; Not everyone will agree on which is best for an given coin.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>Good luck with the new camera.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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