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<p>[QUOTE="JCro57, post: 2958133, member: 92083"]In Buffalo and Western Pennsylvania, most dealers use the Grey Sheet, as well as the shows they have here in Buffalo...and that's what they sell them to me at. I also ask for Grey Sheet prices when I message sellers on eBay or Collectors Corner even if they list them higher, and they very often agree to it or come within 10-15%. I would ask your local coin shop for old copies. That's what I do from my dealer friends or I take a photo of the current Grey Sheet prices of what I like to collect. Now I buy a lot from them, so they don't mind. </p><p><br /></p><p>Dealers get annoyed when you are knowledgeable about Grey Sheet or try to haggle for their listed prices because it keeps their prices in check and they can't manipulate new or inexperienced collectors. Very few dealers will tell you to use Grey Sheet because it's actually what most of them use, and thus now they can't ask as much because anything drastically over that price will leave the impression with a buyer that they are "price gougers, dishonest, and sneaky" dealers, even if they aren't.</p><p><br /></p><p>Only problem with Grey Sheet is that it doesn't always list off-grades, and many highly collectible coins are not listed. For example, I love full step, high-grade war nickels...but they're not listed in the paper copy. So, then I go to auction prices listed at PCGS or Heritage Auctions, and even they don't list everything. If those all fail, sometimes I go to a dealer and ask to look at Coin World magazine prices. </p><p><br /></p><p>Though Grey Sheet is going to be your best resource, buying your own subscription is incredibly expensive. They have an online version (coinprices.com) , but the prices listed there are higher than the printed copy because unless you have a subscription, the free online one only lists <i>retail</i> prices (Grey Sheet is actually whole sale price publication, again, which is why dealers hate buyers who use that as their guide).</p><p><br /></p><p>I hope this helps, my friend.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="JCro57, post: 2958133, member: 92083"]In Buffalo and Western Pennsylvania, most dealers use the Grey Sheet, as well as the shows they have here in Buffalo...and that's what they sell them to me at. I also ask for Grey Sheet prices when I message sellers on eBay or Collectors Corner even if they list them higher, and they very often agree to it or come within 10-15%. I would ask your local coin shop for old copies. That's what I do from my dealer friends or I take a photo of the current Grey Sheet prices of what I like to collect. Now I buy a lot from them, so they don't mind. Dealers get annoyed when you are knowledgeable about Grey Sheet or try to haggle for their listed prices because it keeps their prices in check and they can't manipulate new or inexperienced collectors. Very few dealers will tell you to use Grey Sheet because it's actually what most of them use, and thus now they can't ask as much because anything drastically over that price will leave the impression with a buyer that they are "price gougers, dishonest, and sneaky" dealers, even if they aren't. Only problem with Grey Sheet is that it doesn't always list off-grades, and many highly collectible coins are not listed. For example, I love full step, high-grade war nickels...but they're not listed in the paper copy. So, then I go to auction prices listed at PCGS or Heritage Auctions, and even they don't list everything. If those all fail, sometimes I go to a dealer and ask to look at Coin World magazine prices. Though Grey Sheet is going to be your best resource, buying your own subscription is incredibly expensive. They have an online version (coinprices.com) , but the prices listed there are higher than the printed copy because unless you have a subscription, the free online one only lists [I]retail[/I] prices (Grey Sheet is actually whole sale price publication, again, which is why dealers hate buyers who use that as their guide). I hope this helps, my friend.[/QUOTE]
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