So I have been doing a lot of debating on whether or not to renaissance wax my ancients. Most of the coins I have are from uncleaned lots that I have sat down and restored over the years. I've read a few other posts on other sites with people debating over whether or not a coin loses value once it has been waxed. Which is what has made me hesitant. Has anyone here waxed theirs? If so, could I see a picture of the end result? Just want to get a take or opinion from others.
The topic comes up with some regularity and one recurring concern is of trapping moisture in the coin. Bronze + chloride ions + moisture can lead to bronze disease. Searching for the topic on this board might be difficult because common or short words are excluded from searches and most people don't type the full brand name. If you do a search on this board using "renwax" as the term you'll find some threads though.
We just had a thread on this about two weeks ago (12/26/19) with images of before and after using micro-crystalline silicates.
I bake them first to remove moisture and then wax. But more experienced members are against it - so I suggest you follow their lead. With some of the inexpensive coins I own I find the wax brings out some much needed detail - especially on coins with dry, chalky patina and this generally makes the coin look more attractive and the hobby more enjoyable for me.
Some ancients have a rough surface texture and the wax would tend to fill in the roughness and improve the appearance. Baking the coins to dry them is an excellent idea. I have wondered about using linseed oil or a similar material since it would flow well to fill gaps and then "dry" (actually chemically crosslink with oxygen in the air) to make a plastic.
Renaissance wax polish was originally formulated in the British Museum research laboratories in the early 1950’s, in response to a discussion amongst museum technicians at an international conference on fine-art conservation. Its unique qualities make it ideal for protecting all surfaces from environmental attack or handling. The wax is, for example, replacing the preservative oiling of arms and armor in museums. The wax is hard and dry and does not, like oil, remain sticky and attract atmospheric acidity. It has a crystalline structure much finer than totally natural waxes, a property that confers a highly efficient moisture resistance. Countless statues and monuments in city streets are now protected by Renaissance wax from weathering corrosion. Arms and armor, steel and kitchen equipment of brass and copper, in historic house museums, are kept bright and corrosion-free. When thinly applied and rubbed out to full luster, the wax film is (and remains) glass-clear, with no discoloration either of the wax or the underlying surface. ------EPI pdf It's really bad stuff, huh? Seems to me that it might protect coins from the potentially destructive oils that are deposited by your fingers when handling them. I use it on some of my coins. Not the ones with significant porosity, or original dirt, of course. Good product.
I used to use Renaissance wax. I would apply it and then buff the coin using a felt-tip Dremel attachment. That improved the eye appeal of some coins, especially when I bought uncleaneds and cleaned them myself. But I noticed that over time the wax could leave a film on the inside of my flip, compromising the eye appeal I had worked to develop. While I don't think I've ever had a coin develop BD from waxing, I will say that I've abandoned the practice for three reasons: 1) I rarely by so-called "uncleaned" coins any more. Most of the coins I buy now are as good as they're going to get. 2) As the wax aged on the coin, I think I could discern a very subtle film I found undesirable. This is especially true for coins in vinyl flips. 3) I just don't find the process necessary. I'd rather devote my energies to a good write-up of a new coin. The only reason I might consider applying wax now is if I got a pretty dirty coin that might have its detail pop with some wax and buffing (provided the buffing did not damage the patina). But even here, it's probably the buffing that better brings out the details, not the wax.