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<p>[QUOTE="Clawcoins, post: 3509473, member: 77814"]No problem. We're all trying to "teach" people what to look for. I thought I posted this earlier but I don't see it ....</p><p><br /></p><p>There are various types of Doubling, some which are the ones that are worth money, but many not worth anything.</p><p><br /></p><p>First of all there are 3 primary methods that doubling occurs (simplified, hopefully):</p><p>(1) Machine made - When a part of the minting machine moves slightly. This can be the die, the stamping arm, etc . This is known as Mechanical Doubling, Ejection Doubling, Machine Doubling</p><p>(2) Die Usage Wear made (which of course the machine is holding) - When the die itself starts wearing. aka Die Deterioration Doubling.</p><p><br /></p><p>These first two methods create the “illusion” of doubling. But this is not the doubling that people relate to worth money. (1) and (2) can be one, or the other, or both as they are separate problems from each other.</p><p><br /></p><p>(3) Man made Mistake (and lack of high quality control) - When in the process of creating the hubs and die itself, there is movement or rotation thus creating doubling on the die itself. Which is then "transferred" when the coin is minted/stamped. This is the reason one must understand the entire process as it becomes more obvious when one knows this information.</p><p><br /></p><p>So we have</p><p>(1) Machine Made</p><p>(2) Die Usage Wear Made</p><p>(3) Man/Quality Made in Hub/Die making process</p><p><br /></p><p>Most collectors are after everything that is (3) Man Made, or made during the hub/die making process.</p><p><br /></p><p>The above 3 items totally exclude when the coin goes into circulation. Which then damage, etc can also make one think there's some form of DD.</p><p><br /></p><p>And then, with the "real doubling" there are 9 classes of it, in brief:</p><p>Class 1, Rotated</p><p>Class 2, Distorted Hub Doubling</p><p>Class 3, Design</p><p>Class 4, Offset Hub Doubling</p><p>Class 5, Pivoted</p><p>Class 6, Distended</p><p>Class 7, Modified</p><p>Class 8, Tilted</p><p>Class 9, Single Squeeze</p><p><br /></p><p>But there is a lot to learn about real Doubled Die ...</p><p><br /></p><p>edit: I should add .. (1) & (2) are probably 99.5% or more of the time.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Clawcoins, post: 3509473, member: 77814"]No problem. We're all trying to "teach" people what to look for. I thought I posted this earlier but I don't see it .... There are various types of Doubling, some which are the ones that are worth money, but many not worth anything. First of all there are 3 primary methods that doubling occurs (simplified, hopefully): (1) Machine made - When a part of the minting machine moves slightly. This can be the die, the stamping arm, etc . This is known as Mechanical Doubling, Ejection Doubling, Machine Doubling (2) Die Usage Wear made (which of course the machine is holding) - When the die itself starts wearing. aka Die Deterioration Doubling. These first two methods create the “illusion” of doubling. But this is not the doubling that people relate to worth money. (1) and (2) can be one, or the other, or both as they are separate problems from each other. (3) Man made Mistake (and lack of high quality control) - When in the process of creating the hubs and die itself, there is movement or rotation thus creating doubling on the die itself. Which is then "transferred" when the coin is minted/stamped. This is the reason one must understand the entire process as it becomes more obvious when one knows this information. So we have (1) Machine Made (2) Die Usage Wear Made (3) Man/Quality Made in Hub/Die making process Most collectors are after everything that is (3) Man Made, or made during the hub/die making process. The above 3 items totally exclude when the coin goes into circulation. Which then damage, etc can also make one think there's some form of DD. And then, with the "real doubling" there are 9 classes of it, in brief: Class 1, Rotated Class 2, Distorted Hub Doubling Class 3, Design Class 4, Offset Hub Doubling Class 5, Pivoted Class 6, Distended Class 7, Modified Class 8, Tilted Class 9, Single Squeeze But there is a lot to learn about real Doubled Die ... edit: I should add .. (1) & (2) are probably 99.5% or more of the time.[/QUOTE]
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