Want to crossover one Anacs coin to PCGS cheaply

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by stevereecy, Sep 21, 2020.

  1. stevereecy

    stevereecy Collects Everything

    Quick question. I want to cross over a coin to PCGS. My local shop doesn’t do PCGS. Is there a service that does it? Aggregates orders? I’m concerned I’ll get dinged for suspicious toning otherwise. The coin isn’t worth much but it has nice toning.

    Edit: note distracting sticker residue that ruined the slab
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  3. ddddd

    ddddd Member

    Your cheapest option would be to find someone on the forums that does group orders or would allow you to piggyback with their order.

    The other option is to wait until you have enough coins to make it worth it to send on your own.
     
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  4. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan Eclectic & avid numismatist Moderator

    The problem there is finding someone who is also doing a crossover order. I need to do a PCGS World coin submission before too long, but I will be sending in raw coins. To send that shilling in as a crossover would require a whole different invoice. I suppose if you were willing to bear the costs of that, it could be done.

    Yes, if you join PCGS' Collectors Club at the Gold level, you get four grading vouchers. At the Platinum level, you get eight. That's probably the way to go. Then you can submit that coin and whatever else you want, directly. I use the Collectors Club for my submissions, since I usually do a dozen or less coins each year, on average.
     
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  5. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan Eclectic & avid numismatist Moderator

    As to the ruined ANACS slab, it is possible a product like Goo-Gone would remove the adhesive residue without further clouding the plastic.
     
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  6. Conder101

    Conder101 Numismatist

    Yes cheapest is going to be to piggyback on someone else's submission, otherwise the shipping and the invoice fee are killers. If you can piggyback and it is a economy submission you could get away with only $25. If you go by yourself and ship a single coin you can figure $60 to $70. Piggybacking on a large submission allows the shipping and invoice fee to be divided among all the coins instead of being borne by a single coin.

    Lordmarcovan brings up a good point. Are you wanting to do a crossover, or are you just looking to get it into a PCGS slab? Since you can't mix tier levels on the same invoice, if you are wanting to do a crossover it may be a little more difficult to find an order to piggyback on.
     
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  7. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan Eclectic & avid numismatist Moderator

    Y'know what? I'm due to renew my PCGS membership. If I renew at Gold level, I get four grading vouchers. And as coincidence would have it, I just acquired three NGC pieces I would like to cross to PCGS. The extra voucher could go for your coin, if you wanted to piggyback. I just sent you a private message.

    I would caution you that whether you piggyback or get your own Gold membership, it ain't cheap. As a general rule of thumb, after return shipping, I figure sending in a World coin to PCGS costs about $50 apiece, with the small submissions I make. You see, they require Gold Shield tier for World coins. That does include TrueView imaging, however. A TrueView would certainly showcase the nice toning on your coin.
     
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  8. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan Eclectic & avid numismatist Moderator

    A TrueView is certainly nice to have when you've got a colorfully toned coin.

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  9. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan Eclectic & avid numismatist Moderator

    Except I'm pretty sure Gold Shield tier is mandatory for World coins, so the base fee is $35+, I think? At any rate, as mentioned, I always figure it will cost at least $50 per coin on a World submission, once all the return shipping and stuff is factored in.
     
  10. baseball21

    baseball21 Well-Known Member

    Moderns can be sent normally so those are $16, economy and regular need gold shield so $27 for economy and $40 for regular. If you ever did go express or higher those are automatically gold shield so there's no extra fee.

    PS for membership the 8 voucher one is actually the best deal. If you use them as regular gold shield level that's a $320 value
     
  11. Conder101

    Conder101 Numismatist

    I didn't pay attention to what the coin was he wanted to submit.

    Yes, but not if you only have one coin you want to send in.
     
  12. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan Eclectic & avid numismatist Moderator

    Modern World coins can go for $16? That's news to me. I've been paying for Gold Shield on them.
     
  13. baseball21

    baseball21 Well-Known Member

    Yea, you don't have to use the gold shield for the modern ones if you don't want too.
     
  14. lordmarcovan

    lordmarcovan Eclectic & avid numismatist Moderator

    Cool.
     
  15. baseball21

    baseball21 Well-Known Member

    TrueView prices got dropped to $5 too if you wanted to picture any of them but not all of them
     
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  16. stevereecy

    stevereecy Collects Everything

    Lord Marcovan,

    You are both a scholar and a gentlemen. Thanks for the offer, and I will take you up on it. I've PMed you, and I appreciate your gracious offer very much. I really need to do something with this coin, and I don't think I'll ever have more than one or two crossovers...it's just not something I do and the box of 20 method keeps my numbers down. FWIW, I agree that I should get a trueview...I wouldn't be crossing this coin if it didn't have such crazy colors...PCGS needs to see it's been in a slab for a long, long time.

    Steve
     
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  17. John Burgess

    John Burgess Well-Known Member

    if Anacs didn't give you questionable toning, PCGS likely won't either in a crossover. HOWEVER, PGCS might downgrade it to MS60 in the crossover, it's possible. they have different standards than ANACS and it doesn't always match up. I believe they will check with you before crossing it over if it downgrades though, you'd still pay the fee if you decide against doing it and keeping it in the slab it was in to keep the grade it had.

    I really like those 1990s ANACS white slabs so I'm a bit biased and will try to talk you out of reholdering/crossing over. LOL

    Why don't you try a microfiber cloth and Mineral Oil? From my experience it takes all adhesives off of Plexiglass and acrylic compositions that I've tried and won't etch it. just test it on the corner edge on a Q-tip and wipe it off and check it in a day to see if it discolors or hazes the holder so you are comfortable with it before you do it on the front, just to make sure you know what you are getting into. It's a pH 7 neutral oil. Acetone while also pH7 will likely haze it because it's a solvent. same goes for WD40, lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol, ect. a bit too harsh for clear plastics/acrylics, unless you want to resurface and polish it afterwards to make it clear again.

    I mean there are ways to fix acrylics and plexiglass, even scratches. In a past life I've needed to do it to an acrylic fish tank, headlight lenses, or plexi, ect. ect.
    It's not easy, it's not the cheapest considering the labor involved, but you can resurface a scratched slab and make it scratch free again if you learn how to polish plastics, it's basically taking the whole surface and sanding down the scratches and surface evenly to very, very fine scratches, then polishing out the very fine scratches. I have to think it would cost less than the shipping back and forth to PCGS and I really think the mineral oil solves your sticker residue issue unless it was some sort of caustic adhesive.

    Plus, Mineral Oil is safe, and there is a food safe version some old timers use for constipation sold at pharmacies. nothing there really that might hang around or put off fumes where you store your coins after doing it.

    Just do not confuse mineral oil and mineral spirits, it's two different things entirely.

    Anyways, I am a fan of those older ANACS soap bar style holders, I'm not a fan of the clear ones they have been using now a days. I wish they would go back. I think the slabbing industry is ripe for "retro" holder reintroduction. That would be great.
     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2020
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  18. baseball21

    baseball21 Well-Known Member

    They don't check with you they go off of what you selected at the submission. He could choose to do it at the current grade only or at a lower grade as the minimum or at any grade will any straight grade will cross.
     
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  19. Rodger Coman

    Rodger Coman New Member

    I'm a little new to serious coin collecting. I have around 100 certified coins, mostly PCGS and NGC, but I do have a few IGC and ANACS. My observations tell me that buyers don't like ANACS much. While at a coin show last July in Grapevine TX, I talked to a serious Morgan dealer and he said that it is good to get ANACS grading as it gets you in the ballpark for about 1/3 the cost. If the coin comes back high grade, then submit to PCGS or NGC. Comments.
     
  20. 1865King

    1865King Member

    You said this coin isn't of high value so if I were you I would try Goo-Gone first before spending the money to have it cross over. If it's only residue it should come off. I've done it by taking a tissue with goo-gone on it and hold it in place where the glue is so it has time to loosen the residue and try to get it off. You may need to do it a few times but it will come off. You have nothing to loose by trying. If you damage the slab who cares. Then send it in to PCGS or just crack it out and send it in raw. You may get a higher grade if you crack it out. PCGS has a tendency to down grade coins in ANACS slabs if for no other reason to make you think their better at it. I like the way the coin looks so I would rather leave it in the slab instead of taking a chance of damaging the coin cracking it out.
     
  21. John Burgess

    John Burgess Well-Known Member

    Just saying,Goo-Gone has kerosene and PPG-3 methyl-ether, and citrus leaf extract, and it is combustible. I wouldn't use it without testing somewhere inconspicuous first and waiting to see what it does to the plastic, and even then, the vapors, if residue is left behind, may speed toning or start corrosion, and it's a petroleum based product, it has the chance of absorbing into the acrylic/plastic.
    I have no experience with that product on anythign other than unfinished metal or glass, as I felt it was too harsh for plastics/acrylics at the time. has it worked without damage or adverse affects?
     
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