Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by stevereecy, Sep 21, 2020.
Edit: note distracting sticker residue that ruined the slab
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The other option is to wait until you have enough coins to make it worth it to send on your own.
The problem there is finding someone who is also doing a crossover order. I need to do a PCGS World coin submission before too long, but I will be sending in raw coins. To send that shilling in as a crossover would require a whole different invoice. I suppose if you were willing to bear the costs of that, it could be done.
Yes, if you join PCGS' Collectors Club at the Gold level, you get four grading vouchers. At the Platinum level, you get eight. That's probably the way to go. Then you can submit that coin and whatever else you want, directly. I use the Collectors Club for my submissions, since I usually do a dozen or less coins each year, on average.
Goo-Gone would remove the adhesive residue without further clouding the plastic.
Lordmarcovan brings up a good point. Are you wanting to do a crossover, or are you just looking to get it into a PCGS slab? Since you can't mix tier levels on the same invoice, if you are wanting to do a crossover it may be a little more difficult to find an order to piggyback on.
I would caution you that whether you piggyback or get your own Gold membership, it ain't cheap. As a general rule of thumb, after return shipping, I figure sending in a World coin to PCGS costs about $50 apiece, with the small submissions I make. You see, they require Gold Shield tier for World coins. That does include TrueView imaging, however. A TrueView would certainly showcase the nice toning on your coin.
Except I'm pretty sure Gold Shield tier is mandatory for World coins, so the base fee is $35+, I think? At any rate, as mentioned, I always figure it will cost at least $50 per coin on a World submission, once all the return shipping and stuff is factored in.
Moderns can be sent normally so those are $16, economy and regular need gold shield so $27 for economy and $40 for regular. If you ever did go express or higher those are automatically gold shield so there's no extra fee.
PS for membership the 8 voucher one is actually the best deal. If you use them as regular gold shield level that's a $320 value
Yes, but not if you only have one coin you want to send in.
Modern World coins can go for $16? That's news to me. I've been paying for Gold Shield on them.
Yea, you don't have to use the gold shield for the modern ones if you don't want too.
TrueView prices got dropped to $5 too if you wanted to picture any of them but not all of them
You are both a scholar and a gentlemen. Thanks for the offer, and I will take you up on it. I've PMed you, and I appreciate your gracious offer very much. I really need to do something with this coin, and I don't think I'll ever have more than one or two crossovers...it's just not something I do and the box of 20 method keeps my numbers down. FWIW, I agree that I should get a trueview...I wouldn't be crossing this coin if it didn't have such crazy colors...PCGS needs to see it's been in a slab for a long, long time.
I really like those 1990s ANACS white slabs so I'm a bit biased and will try to talk you out of reholdering/crossing over. LOL
Why don't you try a microfiber cloth and Mineral Oil? From my experience it takes all adhesives off of Plexiglass and acrylic compositions that I've tried and won't etch it. just test it on the corner edge on a Q-tip and wipe it off and check it in a day to see if it discolors or hazes the holder so you are comfortable with it before you do it on the front, just to make sure you know what you are getting into. It's a pH 7 neutral oil. Acetone while also pH7 will likely haze it because it's a solvent. same goes for WD40, lighter fluid, rubbing alcohol, ect. a bit too harsh for clear plastics/acrylics, unless you want to resurface and polish it afterwards to make it clear again.
I mean there are ways to fix acrylics and plexiglass, even scratches. In a past life I've needed to do it to an acrylic fish tank, headlight lenses, or plexi, ect. ect.
It's not easy, it's not the cheapest considering the labor involved, but you can resurface a scratched slab and make it scratch free again if you learn how to polish plastics, it's basically taking the whole surface and sanding down the scratches and surface evenly to very, very fine scratches, then polishing out the very fine scratches. I have to think it would cost less than the shipping back and forth to PCGS and I really think the mineral oil solves your sticker residue issue unless it was some sort of caustic adhesive.
Plus, Mineral Oil is safe, and there is a food safe version some old timers use for constipation sold at pharmacies. nothing there really that might hang around or put off fumes where you store your coins after doing it.
Just do not confuse mineral oil and mineral spirits, it's two different things entirely.
Anyways, I am a fan of those older ANACS soap bar style holders, I'm not a fan of the clear ones they have been using now a days. I wish they would go back. I think the slabbing industry is ripe for "retro" holder reintroduction. That would be great.
They don't check with you they go off of what you selected at the submission. He could choose to do it at the current grade only or at a lower grade as the minimum or at any grade will any straight grade will cross.
I have no experience with that product on anythign other than unfinished metal or glass, as I felt it was too harsh for plastics/acrylics at the time. has it worked without damage or adverse affects?
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