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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 2306486, member: 19463"]<a href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-alpha-a6000" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-alpha-a6000" rel="nofollow">http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-alpha-a6000</a></p><p><a href="http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/sony-a6000/sony-a6000A.HTM" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/sony-a6000/sony-a6000A.HTM" rel="nofollow">http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/sony-a6000/sony-a6000A.HTM</a></p><p><a href="http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-alpha-6000/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-alpha-6000/" rel="nofollow">http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-alpha-6000/</a></p><p>[MEDIA=youtube]OQ1-lTg6AoQ[/MEDIA]</p><p>The reason for poor user manuals is they cost money and no one reads them. Most cameras have them online and give you the address in the box if you want one. You can learn a lot about a camera by reading reviews of it online. Google the model name and look for sites like the above. </p><p><br /></p><p>This is what is classed a 'mirrorless camera'. This is a breed with which I have no experience. They took the digital single lens reflex (DSLR) style that had accessory features allowing seeing the scene on the screen before exposure (Live View) and made that the only way to take photos. For coins this is fine but I have hesitations about it for some other types of photos. My objections will go away when they eliminate the 'shutter lag' or time between when you push the button and when the photo is taken. Coins don't move so the camera will be great for the purpose. I use the same camera for other stuff where timing is everything. </p><p><br /></p><p>You might want a set of extension tubes for close work like coins. There are cheap and expensive ones. Both work with my Canon. I have no experience with Sony.</p><p><a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/hands-review/vello-extension-tubes-mirrorless-cameras" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/hands-review/vello-extension-tubes-mirrorless-cameras" rel="nofollow">http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/hands-review/vello-extension-tubes-mirrorless-cameras</a></p><p><a href="http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51269333" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51269333" rel="nofollow">http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51269333</a></p><p><br /></p><p>eBay sells a wide range:</p><p><a href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xa6000+extension+tubes.TRS0&_nkw=a6000+extension+tubes&_sacat=0" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xa6000+extension+tubes.TRS0&_nkw=a6000+extension+tubes&_sacat=0" rel="nofollow">http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xa6000+extension+tubes.TRS0&_nkw=a6000+extension+tubes&_sacat=0</a></p><p>DO NOT buy the ones that are under $10 and provide no electric contacts . The above link shows both types but te description will say if the tubes maintain auto focus and diaphragm operation. The good ones will have a photo showing the little dots inside that are the contacts you need.</p><p><img src="http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/v1YAAOSwk1JWfMSt/s-l500.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>If you have read my pages you know I do not recommend buying a copy stand. They tend to be either expensive or spindly. You need stable. I cobble the things together out of scrap wood but people would take me more seriously if I made one out of furniture grade hardwoods with fine finish. For coins shot with a zoom lens camera, the stand need little in the way of adjustments. It is easier to make the stand without movement and have more than one dowel rod to support coins at different levels. </p><p><img src="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack00.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>My most recent model requires being able to cut the two 45 degree ends o the 2x4 support but counterbalances well so it does not fall over with a heavy camera rig. the red v points to an accessory (eBay $13) focus rail which helps with macro but is less needed for whole coins. The extra piece of wood just left of the rail has several holes allowing mounting the camera at different heights if you find that easier than having more than one support. The one shown here is a CD spindle which is easier than my original dowels. This photo shows flash which I only use for super close images where any motion is deadly. </p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]464148[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 2306486, member: 19463"][url]http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sony-alpha-a6000[/url] [url]http://www.imaging-resource.com/PRODS/sony-a6000/sony-a6000A.HTM[/url] [url]http://www.cnet.com/products/sony-alpha-6000/[/url] [MEDIA=youtube]OQ1-lTg6AoQ[/MEDIA] The reason for poor user manuals is they cost money and no one reads them. Most cameras have them online and give you the address in the box if you want one. You can learn a lot about a camera by reading reviews of it online. Google the model name and look for sites like the above. This is what is classed a 'mirrorless camera'. This is a breed with which I have no experience. They took the digital single lens reflex (DSLR) style that had accessory features allowing seeing the scene on the screen before exposure (Live View) and made that the only way to take photos. For coins this is fine but I have hesitations about it for some other types of photos. My objections will go away when they eliminate the 'shutter lag' or time between when you push the button and when the photo is taken. Coins don't move so the camera will be great for the purpose. I use the same camera for other stuff where timing is everything. You might want a set of extension tubes for close work like coins. There are cheap and expensive ones. Both work with my Canon. I have no experience with Sony. [url]http://www.bhphotovideo.com/explora/photography/hands-review/vello-extension-tubes-mirrorless-cameras[/url] [url]http://www.dpreview.com/forums/post/51269333[/url] eBay sells a wide range: [url]http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2050601.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xa6000+extension+tubes.TRS0&_nkw=a6000+extension+tubes&_sacat=0[/url] DO NOT buy the ones that are under $10 and provide no electric contacts . The above link shows both types but te description will say if the tubes maintain auto focus and diaphragm operation. The good ones will have a photo showing the little dots inside that are the contacts you need. [IMG]http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/v1YAAOSwk1JWfMSt/s-l500.jpg[/IMG] If you have read my pages you know I do not recommend buying a copy stand. They tend to be either expensive or spindly. You need stable. I cobble the things together out of scrap wood but people would take me more seriously if I made one out of furniture grade hardwoods with fine finish. For coins shot with a zoom lens camera, the stand need little in the way of adjustments. It is easier to make the stand without movement and have more than one dowel rod to support coins at different levels. [IMG]http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack00.jpg[/IMG] My most recent model requires being able to cut the two 45 degree ends o the 2x4 support but counterbalances well so it does not fall over with a heavy camera rig. the red v points to an accessory (eBay $13) focus rail which helps with macro but is less needed for whole coins. The extra piece of wood just left of the rail has several holes allowing mounting the camera at different heights if you find that easier than having more than one support. The one shown here is a CD spindle which is easier than my original dowels. This photo shows flash which I only use for super close images where any motion is deadly. [ATTACH=full]464148[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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