Verification services

I apologize if this has been asked ad nauseam but I couldn't find it with the search. But is there a cheap service that will simply verify that my coin is real... No grading necessary... No holder necessary.

 

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Many local dealers are terrible at this though. I know from experience.

 

pix PIX PiX and more pIx

 

ANACS is cheap and you get a grade too.

 

Honestly ANACS is probably your best bet for what you're looking for

 

Or just post some pictures here!

 

Thanks for the help guys. I thought it would be too hard to tell from pics. So let me give you my background story... Before I get laughed off this forum. I started just 6 months ago trying to buy silver as an investment. And I started with buying junk silver. After my first few purchases I caught the collecting bug. But I'm still on a very tight budget but this guy I was selling my junk to (to fund my collecting habit) had a 1893 O and a 1895 O Morgan he would sell to me for $70 each... So I bought it. They are fillers for sure until my budget allows me to upgrade but these are the first two silver dollars I've shelled out more than $22 for. So what do you think... real or not? (Sorry if the pictures are bad... the camera on my phone is my only camera) note: give me a sec need to get on my computer to rotate then upload the photos.

 

To me, they are too far gone to tell if they are real or not. Personally, I would not have paid $70 for either of them in that condition.

Chris

 

I always tell folks to buy what they like but those are too worn for me. It may be tough to sell those in the future.

 

I'm thinking a fake would be in a better grade.

 

If you plan to build a collection, save your money and try to buy graded, slabbed coins in ms60 or higher...if funds allow. If you want silver for investment, buy ASE's

 

Although both coins are heavily worn, there's quite a big difference in weight- 1.3gr... Not sure if 27.1gr is still within the weight tolerance considering an UNC Morgan dollar should be at 26.73gr.

 

At that price range, I'm thinking I wouldn't throw additional money after these to get them authenticated. Even if you sign up for the ANACS mailing list and wait for their next "grade 2 for free" promotion, you'd still be looking at $25 or so just to cover shipping and insurance.

I'm sure a lot of people wouldn't pay that much for them, but I'm also sure that a lot of people wouldn't accept that little for them. You won't get your money back selling to a dealer, but if you list them one day on eBay, you aren't likely to lose too much money on them.

 

Thank you all for your advice...

But specifically, to micbraun... "there's quite a big difference in weight". Yah, my bad, I should have taken it out of the cardboard holder... to show you how cheap or how much of a budget I'm on, I reuse my flips, so I didn't want to mess up such a nice flip... lol. Also, those markings... CLX4... blah blah blah... I thought I read on another thread that that's usually what dealers put on their flips to show how much they paid for it. (Is that corrrect?) And I was hoping showing you guys that it came in a flip like that "legitimizes" my purchase? (idk).

Thank you again, for your advice, I've posted on another thread about inheriting some coins I didn't recognize, and the guys there were very helpful too.

 

I think the 93-O weighing about 27gr in AG (?) condition is way too heavy.

Look at this thread: http://www.coincommunity.com/forum/topic.asp?ARCHIVE=true&TOPIC_ID=29412
"I weighed an 1881-cc in G a few years back and got 25.28g" -> your coin should have a similar weight!

 

A flip with three staples easily weighs more than a gram.

 

OK then the '95-O must be underweight

 

It's pretty easy to see where it lost the weight. I'm not sure I've seen another Morgan where you can't make out LIBERTY at all. To be honest, I would've expected the mint mark AND date to be obliterated before LIBERTY disappeared.