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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;DEA, post: 3163456, member: 90140&quot;]Hey Brandon!&nbsp; Welcome!</p><p><br /></p><p>Your 1929 penny, which is cataloged as Krause-Mishler (KM) number 838, is made out of bronze (copper and tin).&nbsp; It should weigh about 9.40 grams and have a diameter of 31 millimeters.&nbsp; The Brits minted more than 49 million of those for circulation; they made a number of proofs but I don&#039;t know how many.&nbsp; I&#039;m no expert, but I do not think that coin of yours is a proof.&nbsp; I don&#039;t know why someone wrote PF on the 2x2; could be the name of someone who owned it (e.g., Peter Frankenstein or even Peter Frampton).&nbsp; A proof of that coin, in proof-63 condition (the condition of coins are measured from zero to 70), could possibly be sought by someone who was willing to pay $1,600-plus.&nbsp; The condition of your coin (again, no expert, just my most humble opinion) is fine to <i>maybe </i>very fine - which would put it somewhere between fifty-cents and $2.00.&nbsp; Well, after taking another look, I think fine or less is probably more accurate (but I&#039;m no expert).&nbsp; I can accurately tell you that I would pay no more $1 for it, most likely much less since I have a KM# 838.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>To answer your specific question - &quot;How can one tell if they are proof coins&quot; - I am hesitant to reply but will try to explain.&nbsp; The coin will be amazingly beautiful, with shiny or mirror-like surfaces.&nbsp; The details of the coin will be incredible and sharp and distinctive.&nbsp; When a mint makes a proof coin, they stamp it more than once, or shine up the dies to create an incredible coin.&nbsp; Now, a proof coin can wind up in circulation and get as worn as yours, but I don&#039;t know whether that means it really qualifies as a proof coin anymore.&nbsp; Await the reply of someone with more technical knowledge than I.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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