Undated Shield Nickel

I know what it is, and it is not an error. But what is an undated shield nickel worth? Pretty rough shape.

I paid 25 cents.

 

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You did fine as wine I would say at least a few bucks,something expected in a LCS junk bin.

 

That's ok . I guess .

 

Yup 4 for a dollar. The 3 other coins were world and worth 10 cents each.

 

@Razz Have you thought about using a drop of Nic-A-Date? You never know, you might have a scarce date like 1871, 1879, 1880, or 1881. Even in rough shape, a shield nickel from those dates would command a premium.

 

Ah no reason to use nic a date you can tell by the reverse. And its very common date.....!

Hint broken star...and placement ....I tell you but research is so important in this hobby.

 

I have the CPG! Looks like extra leaf obverse B and broken star reverse IIa. So only the edit: some 1869 wide date and 1870 have that combo. Checking the 1869 WD now but taking a while to scroll through my Kindle to the year.

 

I don't think we can know if it had a wide date so defaulting to 1870.
The CPG obverse and reverse die marriages are here, with the 69 at the top of the page:

No doubling evident so nothing special as @Paddy54 states. Probably details corrosion.

 

Thank you @Paddy54 for the hint! When you have the chance let me know if I got it right!

 

I don't collect shield nickels so I didn't know. Thanks for the info.

 

@Razz

Its either a 68 or a 69. ll a hub, Yes the reverse can be used to narrow down the date . The condition is very poor , but with the right forensic, and research you can sometimes narrow it down.
I have a seated dime it worn smooth....very little details if any .... but a faint mm & a ribbon that can be seen is the dead give away to the date. I am for 1 that doesn't look for or buy such specimens. I come by them buying coin lots......anything with a hole goes to Lord M.
The broken star ,broken letters on shields will help id the date or narrow it down.
Sorry about being so secretive but wanted you...to learn something that now will definitely stick with you.
I picked this tall date or narrow date is a rare find....if interested pm me There's is another one I found

 

Thanks it definitely has stuck!

 

No expert here...but a student of the school of hard knocks....but learned quickly by mistakes as well learning to like to read and research...I am am firm believer that this hobby could be a turning point for a child with learning issues... as it covers so much of information on so many subjects that makes learning fun...and not a chore. Again no expert but know if I can share any knowledge feel free to pm me.

 

Thanks I will!

 

How do you c that! What does star have to do with it?

 

Pick up the book and read.....you be surprised what can be learned...like the reverses of a shield nickel series.
In fact you only need to re read this thread as its posted.
Post #8

 

I

Book? wHATS A blook?

 

Joe did you see and understand how there are several reverses ? 66 & 67 rays 67 without rays the key is the broken * under OF. The top left point is broken, plus its placement to the F . Then there other reverses again placement of the * under of, plus broken letters C S D find a shield with broken letters is a better chance of finding a better variety in the series.

 

Yes I do now that you 'POINTED it out. It is hard to distinguish on the OP coin. It's much better accented on a better example...

It does help to know what to look for especially when details are small. I was also able to find an example of a * under F broken C...
So what was the cause of this?

 

Joe the Cas well the S is broken Notice that star points directly at the middle of the base of the F in of?
Those are die defects , to be honest the broken star point on the 68 and 69 reverses could of been done while making the die.
The broken letters from the use of the die .
Do you recall I said that shield nickels dies only had a life expectancy of <10,000 strikes? The shield nickel was just a tad bit thicker and smaller in diameter. It stilled weighted 5gr. But if to put a shield next to any other nickel you'll see its smaller yet thicker.
If you are buying holders for a shield nickel you need to adjust for this....if not the nickel will spin or the holder may not close tightly.