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<p>[QUOTE="ToughCOINS, post: 2608017, member: 20480"]You have what appears to be a transfer die for counterfeiting a 1956 Roosevelt Dime. </p><p><br /></p><p>Others have raised the possibility that this is a casting die. It is not. A casting die would possess a sprue (or runner) to supply the molten metal, a gate for the entry of metal to fill the cavity, and a vent for excess material to exit from it, which this tool does not. </p><p><br /></p><p>A transfer die requires none of the three features mentioned above. It requires only the design details of the coin itself. </p><p><br /></p><p>A genuine die from the US Mint would:</p><ul> <li>Possess more and sharper design details than your tool does;</li> <li>Not exhibit a depression in the tool where the rim of the coin used was pressed into the tool, which this coin does. Thus, the term "transfer die";<br /> </li> <li>Be made from a round piece of bar stock with one or more alignment flats on it, and not exhibit such an elaborate keying system for alignment in the press;</li> <li>Not exhibit the extruded edges on the back of the die, which indicated that it was a pressed tool, rather than a machined one).</li> </ul><p>As suggested elsewhere, you are heartily advised not to sell this tool until you have checked with authorities who have jurisdiction over the counterfeiting of US coinage. That would be either the Department of the Treasury or the US Secret Service.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="ToughCOINS, post: 2608017, member: 20480"]You have what appears to be a transfer die for counterfeiting a 1956 Roosevelt Dime. Others have raised the possibility that this is a casting die. It is not. A casting die would possess a sprue (or runner) to supply the molten metal, a gate for the entry of metal to fill the cavity, and a vent for excess material to exit from it, which this tool does not. A transfer die requires none of the three features mentioned above. It requires only the design details of the coin itself. A genuine die from the US Mint would: [LIST] [*]Possess more and sharper design details than your tool does; [*]Not exhibit a depression in the tool where the rim of the coin used was pressed into the tool, which this coin does. Thus, the term "transfer die"; [*]Be made from a round piece of bar stock with one or more alignment flats on it, and not exhibit such an elaborate keying system for alignment in the press; [*]Not exhibit the extruded edges on the back of the die, which indicated that it was a pressed tool, rather than a machined one). [/LIST] As suggested elsewhere, you are heartily advised not to sell this tool until you have checked with authorities who have jurisdiction over the counterfeiting of US coinage. That would be either the Department of the Treasury or the US Secret Service.[/QUOTE]
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