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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;desertgem, post: 1230368, member: 15199&quot;]Well I think you are doing the correct thing first, and that is experimenting. I believe I used between 50 -100 wheat cents with differing degree of problems and many BU&nbsp; with no problems myself to get used to its action and timing, I followed the instructions and then went from there. As the direction say, I limit to 12 hrs /side, as I know that the chance of patina change ( seems more likely with rb to medium brown ) is not worth the risk. I do use acetone as a final rinse to remove all water. Thad has said several times that the reaction is a chemical one and not a &quot;covering&quot; one, and I have found no ill effects doing that.</p><p><br /></p><p>For the spot removal using verdicare, the directions say use a wood toothpick, and I use bamboo food sticks that I previously soak the pointed ends. Once soaked, the bamboo seems to be more flexible and can hold more fluid ( JMHO, no recommendations besides try.) Obviously the rag/fluid method which he recommends for circulated coins should only be used with circulated coins.</p><p><br /></p><p>I liked the old verdi-gone better for removing heavier verdigris ( I have several threads on the forum on this), but the verdicare seems more protective of the coin&#039;s original patina.</p><p><br /></p><p>But the main thing learned by use is knowing when the coin can not get any better and stop, or in many cases , so bad, not to even waste time and resources. It can not cure all, but it often makes a small problem coin into a nice coin. IMO.</p><p>I have no financial arrangement with Thad, and all opinions and goofs are mine.</p><p>Jim</p><p><br /></p><p>edit to add: I use the bamboo sticks because I need the long length as I do this technique under my zoom stereo microscope so I can carefully see what I am doing as my eyes get a little worse each year <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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