Ultimate Dime Search

Thanks Speedy for the information.

Well, I was at the show last weekend, looking for the 1916-D in VG8. 140 tables, and no luck. I had a few say they had one the day or two before, but none were available. The drive to Chitown was unsuccessful. There were AGs, VFs, a couple of g6's but no VG or F. I was very surprised and a little disapponted. But I am staying patient.

Overall, the show was overwhelming. Overall, dealers were dealing with dealers. I kind felt like I was left out of the coin collecting good ole boys club because I did not wear a dealer badge. I bought a couple of coins but I probably would have been better off dealing with the local shops at home.

Oh well, it was an experience.

 

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Glad you found some coins...don't worry about not finding the coin...I have look for some coins for a long time too...and when you find one..don't buy it just because its the first one you have seen....if there is a problem..leave it...I have seen many coins I have been looking for but they just wern't the right one..

Speedy

 

That was a good show, I went early on the 24th and saw a lot of good 16-Ds so, maby they sold. There were lots of good deals at that show.

 

Speedy -

Yep, I going to find what I like. BTW, thanks for your input on ANACS and the other advice. I do not want to have buyers remorse on this potential purchase.

 

but you are right It was all dealers dealing with dealers, I know what you ment, But I still managed to find what I wanted (1914-D cent)

 

I guess Saturday was not as good, but I could not make it on Friday. There were good 16D's, but no VG or F grades.

 

Yah I mostly saw AG's and G's but I did see a couple VG's and one in F

 

Yep, but I saw some awesome coins which I could only dream of purchasing. But a show like that is truly overwhelming. It was not laid back, with lots of intense, overcaffienated dealers talking amongst themselves.

BTW, were the VG and F 16D coins slabbed? Just curious.

 

I think one of them was ANACS because It was at an all ANACS table, but I think the other one was raw.

 

What are the latest prices for certified (NGC, PCGS, ANACS) 1916 D Mercury Dimes in VG and F condition? It seems like the price has increased significantly (by 30%) the past year. Also, is it possible the 16-D dime is overinflated right now? Will the demand drop?

 

I'm not sure I always agree with this. In my experience, for some reason, early large cent collectors do not like to slab coins. In fact, I've seen my dad spend over 100k on large cents, but I've never once seen him buy a slabbed coin, or any other large cent collector for that matter. I'm sure there are other types of coins where people feel the same way.

I forgot about ebay. You definitely need to be careful there.

 

How do you check ebay?

Ruben

 

But that doesn't give recent winning bids for coins at specific claimed condition? You have to pour over that.

Ruben

 

1:altered 16d ;1916s altered to 1916 d by shaving a blob 's' mint mark to resemble a 'd' Usually easy to detect by comparing size,shape,and position of mint mark with a genuine or photo of a genuine coin.There were four working dies used for the 16 d reverse No. 1 high tilts right No.2 high more vertical No.3 mdium high No.4 low. 2:A1916 obversehollowed out and 'D' mint reverse inserted,orthe other way around.this is very hard to detect if the size,shape,and position of the mint mark is like the genuine. Examine obverse and reverse next to the rim for the seam with a good glass.Compare mint mark position with a genuine. 3:A 'D' mint mark is glued to a 16 'P' coin.Examine the base of the mit mark for a seam. Beware of dark area around the mint mark this could be used to hide the seam.Compare with genuine for mint mark position,size,etc.If it looks treat mint mark with acetone. 4:A hole is drilled into the obverse opposite the mint mark until the metal is very thin.The thin metal is then punched up to form the mint mark and the hole filled in.Compare mint mark with genuine,also examine obverse opposite of mint mark for evidence of filled hole. 5:A 1916 P obverse and a 'D' mint reverse are planed down and soldered or glued together.Usually easy to detect as the reeded edge is fouled up or very unlike the reeding on a genuine if touched up. 6:The last number of a 1917D,1918D 1919D,or the third number of a 1926D is removed and replaced by a number making it a 16D.East to detect by comparing position of numbers in datewith a genuine.

 

Also, should I follow the gray sheet to determine the proper purchase price for a 16-D merc? I hope to subscribe to the gray sheet very soon.

 

If you want a VG slabbed 16-D, buy a F-12 one. It will be a VG. If you buy a VG one it will be a G. (When I learned how to grade a G Mercury dime had to have full rims. Today you will find slabbed 16-D's in G with NO rev rims and only partial obv rims. Circulated 16-D's seem to be bumped up one grade in the slabs from what a raw coin of any other date with the same wear would grade.