Turning blue tone

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by 1958 D, Dec 7, 2018.


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  1. 1958 D

    1958 D Member

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  3. 1958 D

    1958 D Member

    Is this because the way I'm storing them
  4. 1958 D

    1958 D Member

    My 10 and 11 are not doing it
  5. RonSanderson

    RonSanderson Supporter! Supporter

    I think it is out of focus. If you are using an iPhone, remember that they don't focus any closer than 4 inches. You can try to lay the phone on something about that height to keep it stable. I find a roll of toilet paper is just the right height. Look at post #102 in "Post your coin photography set-up" for a suggestion. (Although now I would use a full roll instead of the partial roll shown in the picture.)

    Then you would like to show one picture of each side, so other forum members can see the coin in its entirety. Sadly, we can't see enough to know if this is blue or not. Nickel often cures to a warmer golden-yellow, so blue-white would be more of its base color. Maybe your 2010 and 2011 are starting to pick up some yellow and make your 2009 look blue by comparison?

    From what I can see this is a nice Proof Jefferson nickel. Since they are quite recent that coin can be acquired quite cheaply, but it's a pretty coin and I would just try to appreciate it.
  6. RonSanderson

    RonSanderson Supporter! Supporter

    Here is part of my album. These two proofs are still original color but some of the others are yellowed. (Picture taken with iPhone.)
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2018

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Yes, but only partially so. Toning is something that seems like it should be so simple but yet is extremely complicated. There are so many different factors and variables involved, with each one affecting toning, that they almost defy counting. Even each individual coin itself is of and by itself a variable. That picture immediately above posted by Ron is a good example. Obviously each coin is stored in the same place, in the same method, but look at the differences.

    Bottom line, all coins are going to tone, period. And that toning begins at the moment they are struck. After that toning is dependent upon environment, storage methods, and the variables of each coin itself. Now with proper storage you can slow toning down, sometimes way down, but you can never stop it completely.

    There are many threads and posts on the subject of proper storage, simply do a search using proper storage as the key words to find them and read them.
    V. Kurt Bellman likes this.
  8. V. Kurt Bellman

    V. Kurt Bellman Yes, I'm blunt! Get over your "feeeeelings".

    BINGO! Ron may want to start thinking about at which date he wants to cut over to a different album. I took Dansco's advice and let 2006 be the new album line of demarcation. The first Jefferson Dansco now ends at 2005.
  9. RonSanderson

    RonSanderson Supporter! Supporter

    Thinking, thinking...

    I see Dansco has a "with Proof-only" which has some, but not all, proofs. It goes to 2011 over six pages.

    Then they have an album without any proofs, which cuts off at 2005, and a follow-on (as you point out) starting at 2006.

    What they do not have is any album for the proofs by themselves, preferably all the way from 1938 to present.

    A set of all business strikes is certainly self-consistent and has an aesthetic uniformity without trying to insert the occasional proof along the way.

    But then comes the question of what to do with the proofs? I have been putting the early proofs in Lighthouse plastic 2x2s with black foam inserts, then putting those 2x2s in trays, and the trays into a leatherette box. This takes up a lot more room than a Dansco.

    Maybe they should all move to individual storage. That takes up a ton of room.
    Maybe I should get unmarked Dansco pages and put them in any way I see fit - mixing in the older proofs with that year's business strikes. Then I give up all labeling.

    I saw a video recently of AirTites that were nickel-sized and snapped into 3-ring binder pages. That would provide the storage density almost on a par with a Dansco. Of course, I would be on my own if I wanted any labelling on that.

    What's a guy to do?
  10. V. Kurt Bellman

    V. Kurt Bellman Yes, I'm blunt! Get over your "feeeeelings".

    On a NEARLY related point, I recently got an email from Amazon advertising some really inexpensive 27mm diameter coin capsules. I took a swing and ordered a pack of 100. THEY ARE REALLY NICE! So I capsuled up my Sac's and NA's of ALL finishes in them and neatly stacked them in an old corrosion resistant 2x2 file box, in just the capsules. I save every finish variety. I was BLOWN AWAY. That series is an 80-ish number of pieces! 2000 to date.

    Even the oldest show NO toning at all! One exception. I carefully put back, into a paper 2x2, ONE January 1, 2000 Sac I got in change at my local Walmart. It has a GORGEOUS tone to it. But lots of luster still hanging out underneath.
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2018
  11. 1958 D

    1958 D Member

    Hey there hows every body doin. I was tought by old schools. With 2 by 2s and the plastic pocket. Pages have always put together by year p. D S proof years together everything cronlogicle order makes a nice presentation
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2018
    RonSanderson likes this.
  12. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    That's a bad idea Ron, that leatherette box all by itself will cause toning. And maybe toning that you don't like.

    Here's the thing guys, I know people like albums, I know people like cardboard 2x2s, I know people like coin flips - but all of those things are bad for coins in one way or another and some in several ways. So when it comes to coin storage, sometimes you're being your coins' worst enemy and you don't even realize it.
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