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<p>[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 3244960, member: 19463"]No one believes me but I insist that you can get sharper, vibration free photos from a camera stand with no adjustments of height. TIF's stand is fine but making it possible to move the camera up and down greatly increases the cost and vibration possibilities over making a fixed camera position and a series of different length COIN supports. I really need to make one of these to photograph for the purpose here so I will have something to show every time this comes up. My old one looks trashy and lacks the important feature of several different heights of dowels which is how you change the distance between coin and camera. This old photo shows a CD ROM spindle from the day when everyone had a CDR drive and bought blank disks. So dinosaur I am!</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack00.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>The measurements given here assume a low end DSLR like the Canon shown in the image. For a camera like TIF showed, the sizes could be cut down if storage space is a problem. I used leftover scrap oak flooring for this one but you could use any wood from framing scraps to ebony with equal results in terms of the photos. </p><p><img src="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0diag.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>The quality of modern DSLR cameras is overkill for most coin uses so you can simplify matters by setting up for large coins and shooting loosely when doing small one like denarii. If you want more quality, you can buy accessories like extension tubes or even dedicated macro lenses. I use a Canon 100mm macro for my coin photos but you don't have to unless you plan on making 20x30" prints. The example here shows a fake (Slavey) denarius much reduced from the original full frame (upper left) and a cropped section of the image showing full detail (right). Most of our uses will allow this degree of quality loss without embarrassment. We usually just want a combined image of both sides merged (lower left) not blown up so much as to show ugly details that make our coins look worse than they do 'in hand'. </p><p><img src="http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack2comb.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="dougsmit, post: 3244960, member: 19463"]No one believes me but I insist that you can get sharper, vibration free photos from a camera stand with no adjustments of height. TIF's stand is fine but making it possible to move the camera up and down greatly increases the cost and vibration possibilities over making a fixed camera position and a series of different length COIN supports. I really need to make one of these to photograph for the purpose here so I will have something to show every time this comes up. My old one looks trashy and lacks the important feature of several different heights of dowels which is how you change the distance between coin and camera. This old photo shows a CD ROM spindle from the day when everyone had a CDR drive and bought blank disks. So dinosaur I am! [IMG]http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack00.jpg[/IMG] The measurements given here assume a low end DSLR like the Canon shown in the image. For a camera like TIF showed, the sizes could be cut down if storage space is a problem. I used leftover scrap oak flooring for this one but you could use any wood from framing scraps to ebony with equal results in terms of the photos. [IMG]http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0diag.jpg[/IMG] The quality of modern DSLR cameras is overkill for most coin uses so you can simplify matters by setting up for large coins and shooting loosely when doing small one like denarii. If you want more quality, you can buy accessories like extension tubes or even dedicated macro lenses. I use a Canon 100mm macro for my coin photos but you don't have to unless you plan on making 20x30" prints. The example here shows a fake (Slavey) denarius much reduced from the original full frame (upper left) and a cropped section of the image showing full detail (right). Most of our uses will allow this degree of quality loss without embarrassment. We usually just want a combined image of both sides merged (lower left) not blown up so much as to show ugly details that make our coins look worse than they do 'in hand'. [IMG]http://www.forumancientcoins.com/dougsmith/0bbnewrack2comb.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
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