To slab or not to slab.

Me personally? at least $500, if not more for PCGS and NGC. The dealer return time for NGC seems to be taking two months, and I don't want to wait that long. Plus, I get charged about $55. I don't prefer them, but I could go lower for ANACS also. It's cheaper too.

For a really key date, I also might go lower. They're tough to sell without certs. Maybe $250-$300.

But for ANACS, you'll be set back at least $30-40 typically (at least I think so) if you include insured shipping and everything. Not worth it on a $150 coin.

 

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But don't they have this slabbing service that is cheaper, because it involves havign multiple coins slabbed?

 

Yeah, I was going with that, I think it's still at least $20, what really hurts is the insured shipping.

 

um, possibly a ridiculous question to you guys, but I'm new, so how much does it cost to get a coin slabbed?

 

the price doesnt vary by grade ( unless you are forced to change the tier because of value of the coin)

 

I think usually the cheapest type is $20, but insured shipping is often another $20. So at least $40 most of the time.

 

Among the other comments consider this: purchase price of a coin +$14 = Value of the coin? Then slab it. But if purchase price of a coin + $14 > than the value of the coin then do not slab it.

It's just a math thing.

 

I got mine yesterday! So fast!!! and very nice.

 

How can coins be safely removed from slabs?

I contacted both PCGS and NGC and they said that the coin cannot be removed
without damage. They then added that they have equipment to do it, but they
will not remove the coin and return it, they will only re-slab.

My sight may not be what it was, but I cannot see dark copper coins in slabs,
even to verify the variety. I have just a piece of dark metal in plastic (even
if the label says it is an EF Vermont landscape cent), and so, for me, a
slabbed darkly toned coin is a ruined coin. Slabbing has its place, but I want to be able to see my dark non-reflective coins.
A major dealer said he could not tell me due to liability concerns, and referred me to this forum.
Can you assist in liberating my collection?

 

Using this forum's search feature revealed this:

http://www.cointalk.com/forum/t37671/

 

My local dealer charges me only $20.00/coin for sending to PCGS and I got 7 coins back over the Christmas holiday in about 6 weeks. All graded so I was elated. I have bought at least 4 coins that were $50-200 that were lacquered. It has been a lot of soaking in acetone with mixed results. A 1911 D Lincoln advertised as Ch AU had a scratch on obverse that was being hidden by the lacquer. Aslo bought two Lincolns (AU 1914 S and MS 1929 S) that are soaking as I write this. I bought them when I had significantly less numismatic knowledge than I know do, and didn't look at the coins for a while after I bought them (so too late to return). Recently looked at them and realized that were lacquered and that I got screwed by tricky pictures. I now know that it is easy to hide lacquered coins with a photo so I didn't feel as bad after taking many photos and learning this. Needless to say I am very leary of raw coins, and having only been buying slabbed accordingly. I am in the NGC registry and I enjoy moving up the "ranks", being a competitive encil: sort of person. Just MHO's.

 

Harry, I understand what your saying and used to feel that way about handling the coin. Another way to see it however, is that we pay so much money, at times, for such a small things it's like getting a killer hand oil painting and taping it to your wall as it's more natural that way? The slab highlights the coin in an attractive, protected frame. You have preserved it for generations to come and reduce the chances that someone will screw up the coin, whether by your own hands or others. I have practicing removing verdigris/grime from my AU/EF with mineral oil and a rose thorn (must not break the tip or it will not work well) and then removing with acetone distilled water. If I send a coin like this in I am happy to have it slabbed if it's worth it (semi-key dates). I can't stand seeing slabbed coins with junk on them. Just my opinons.

 

You guys make great arguements both ways. I sense most of this is for high end investors as opposed to low end collectors like myself. I have no coins I would send in myself for grading, but I do have a few that I have bought slabbed. Being a buffalo collector, I made a point of getting recent buffalo coins (2005 nickels, the 2 state quarters) in every way possible. Proofs, silver quarters, etc. and even put some in those generic plastic holders for display. I also got each in slabs in PR69. I have a couple other jeffs in slabs I got cheap on ebay. I figure if I can get a PCGS or NGC slab for 7 or 8 bucks, it's worth it. Am I wrong??????????

 

Well.......yes. First consider what it costs to have a coin slabbed. I figure I am, in most cases, paying less than the slabbing fee for a coin in proof 69 than sending in one that might grade lower, eliminating the fear of the unknown. Then consider what a slabbed coin sells for versus a non slab. Then consider most of what I purchase are newer coins and the oppertunity for their value to rise.

 

It sells for what the consumer pays for it....whether it's a smart thing or not. If you can get it for $1-$2, like GD said, then just put it in a 2x2 if you want it for protection. If you want to sell it again for a premium just because it's in an NGC slab, well....IMO, it's just a cycle of ignorance.

Now, that being said, I'm not calling you ignorant! I use ignorance in the same sense as when a new or uninformed collector sees something they like, and are willing to pay way more than what it's worth for it---but they don't know they're paying too much.

Hopefully that makes sense...

 

I think it makes sense to slab it if you ever plan to sell it. The opinion of a reputable third party never hurts.

 

I guess I am one of the ignorant ones ( no offence taken ) , Because I don't mind paying a few bucks more than the price guides for something I really like and want.

 

My thoughts too. After all, they are just that, guides!