To slab or not to slab.

As asked, there really is no way to properly answer the question; what's best for one guy may not be best for you. Off the top of my head, here are a few questions to ask yourself....

Which TPG would you prefer? How many coins do you wish to submit? Is this a one time deal or will you be sending more in the future? Have you ever submitted before? Would you like the coins screened before submitting? Are there varieties you wish to have attributed on the label? Are the coins of a type that a designation can be an additional consideration (FBL, FB, etc)? The point is that there is no simple or blanket answer for what is "best".

 

Log in or Sign up to hide this ad.

That made me dizzy...but I get your point.

 

grading is overrated unless were are talking about serious coins,people are grading coins with value of 20 dollars or less ..just giving money away for somebody else opinion on a coin that will never sell..nuts

 

OK..OK.. how 'bout this 1993 Mexican Libertad proof set, 5 pieces 5002 minted.
Ampex wants say 269.00 slabbed , I've already have recv'd offers of 200.00+ as is,and they are beautiful PR67-69 IMHO what would you do?

 

I have received so mixed lots of slabbed/graded coins that just don't seem to make much sense to me. Examples are 1988-D clad Dime proof (PF69), 2004 SAC $1 also at PF69 and an Oregon quarter at PF69. All of these are valued at under the cost of the grading, even slabbed/graded. What makes someone do that?

 

Maybe hoping for one or two MS70s that could sell for more than what they paid?

 

That is exactly what it is.

 

Here's my $.02. This applies to currency grading as well. Economics. Will grading net me more money upon sale? Is the item one that needs authentication?

examples where benefit of authentication really helps: Trade Dollars; Republic of Texas paper money; 1893-S Morgans; rarer Confederate paper money; anything unique or super-rare. another authentication situation is variety attribution for coins which fall into a popular/rare variety (i.e, a variety for which coin collectors pay a premium...1880-CC Morgans with the R78, the 80/79 overstrikes, the 8/7 overstrikes).

Economics: GSA Morgans provide really good examples. For the common years (1882-3-4), there is no reason to grade a coin unless it is a "for sure" 64. if you have a 82-3-4 which might be PL---take it to a coin dealer or two and ask if it is PL. I'm batting about .500 on coins I sent in where I was "sure" I had a PL. And I've sent in 4 coins which I thought had a really good chance of DPL, and only one was. The others came back PL.

For the better date GSAs (1878, 80, 81, 85)...the decision point is either 63/64 or 64/65.

So, if a coin is on the threshold of 64-65, where the 64 is a small economic gain and the 65 is a big win....send it in.

I have a pair of gorgeous 1909 VDB cents, each 63-64 and redder than a bull's a**. it makes absolutely no sense to have these graded.

Just to complicate, another decision is obtaining a CAC certification. I had a beautiful 1891-CC Morgan which came back from PCGS at 64+. DANG!!! check the huge spike in value between a 64 and 65 for that coin. I sent it to CAC, hoping for a gold seal (meaning an undergrade). Nope, got the greenie. Oh well

 

another slabbing paradox. Problem Coins.

coins which are notorious for having been cleaned (like Bust halves and other really old silver). Most coins like this are going to have "issues," and cleaning is the most common. If I find a nice one which does not show any such signs, I'm probably sending it in.

Old coppers (early large cents and half-cents) are famous for pitting, environmental damage, corrosion, etc. If I find a nice one that has avoided these issues, I'm probably sending it in.

These are the only coins I will ever send to ICG. Although ICG does not advertise that they "net grade," it has been my observation that they will "net grade" the really old stuff. PCGS and NGC will not do this. But ICG will not net grade a rim ding coin, a graffiti coin, or a scrubbed/whizzed coin.

 

Interesting observation. What about ANACS? I posted a Barber half which is in a small white ANACS holder and people are telling me it looks cleaned.

 

Today, ANACS grades almost as tough and tight as PCGS. But these was a period of time when they were really loose with over-grades, and that stigma has not entirely disappeared. For my money, most coins are headed to PCGS. Rainbows and GSAs go to NGC. Dinosaur problem coins which are candidates for net grading go to ICG.

 

I would slab (submit, to the aforementioned companies) pretty much any U.S. currency in which:
1) the cost of submission outweighs the benefit of abstention.

A) The projected value of the coin is greater than that of the specific cost.
B) Authentic coins in which a TPG grade may diminish the auction value.(how??? - bidders love a treasure hunt, not a cleaned coin! speculate as you wish..)​

This obviously varies depending on the means of submission (TPG membership vs. TPG member submitting your coins), as well as the means by which it’s been appraised (you vs. numismatist vs. antiques dealer vs. your crazy uncle who thinks it looks really nice).

For me (subjective - based on budget and circumstance) I wouldn’t buy a raw coin above $300 in value, unless I have no doubts concerning the seller.

"No doubts” shouldn’t be a byproduct of 100% positive feedback on eBay, or 5 star reviews amongst your local Yelp! reviewers. REGARDLESS OF THE FORUM, “no doubt" is a result of a well-established rapport with the seller, either through repeated transactions, recommendations, or another "no-doubter" who can vouch for this one!

Regardless, the coin market is well “discovered”- it responds quickly to buy/sell fluctuations and there is little chance for arbitrage. World coins are another ballgame, that which I’m not qualified to give advice about! Great thread that I'm looking forward to parsing through.

 

Here is a question - In about 2 weeks, there will be a big coin show in my area. Is it worth the upcharge to get a few high (to me, at least) items graded right there on site, rather than through the mail? For example, an 1895S morgan dollar - I am just assuming this coin is worth enough to be worth grading, because if I ever sell it, a slab will probably help the price a lot. If I am wrong in that assumption, though, feel free to correct me!

 

What is ASE?

 

"American Silver Eagle".

 

Thanks.

Thanks. Where do I go to learn to post coin photos?

 

Just open your response in another window ("reply" > open in new window, or click "more options") and then click the "upload file" option below.

 

I got this from my local B&M last week and after much research...can't find anything out about the Grading Company RNG [Royal Numismatic Grading.
So my questions are;
1. keep it in the slab and resell
2. remove it from slab and resell

I have it on eBay but eBay does not recognize the RNG and will not let me submit it as graded so I'm kind of stuck to sell it on there.

 

For all sense and purposes it should be considered raw, so why not simply offer it as such when listing on the bay? You don't need to remove it, but just don't claim it's certified/graded.

 

I would crack the case ! the grade is meaningless coming from a TPG that nobody has heard of, and the 62 grade is probably way to high, i would just sell it in a raw condition and let things land where they land.